muddacres
Well-Known Member
I was just wondering what most panel gaps are?
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Panel gaps.
- Thread starter muddacres
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
According to Google:
When discussing automobiles, the phrase panel gap refers to the distance between one panel and another — in essence, the gap between them after they have been installed on a vehicle. Panel gap is most often used to describe exterior body parts, such as doors, fenders, hoods, and trunks.Aug 7, 2024
I couldn't resist.
I 'd guess between 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch on most cars that look clean. Much more varied from the factory in most cases. I spent 40 hours adjusting the gaps on my '70 E-Body starting at the back of the door to the quarter panel.
When discussing automobiles, the phrase panel gap refers to the distance between one panel and another — in essence, the gap between them after they have been installed on a vehicle. Panel gap is most often used to describe exterior body parts, such as doors, fenders, hoods, and trunks.Aug 7, 2024
I couldn't resist.
I 'd guess between 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch on most cars that look clean. Much more varied from the factory in most cases. I spent 40 hours adjusting the gaps on my '70 E-Body starting at the back of the door to the quarter panel.
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Just watched a graveyard cars episode and he tries for 3/16" gaps.
Well on a mopar..... all over the place. I am regapping mine by welding wire to the doors etc where the gaps are balls. If you building a head turner the gaps need to be spot on or just looks like a waste of time. No real right or wrong as long as consistant
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I had saw that, you can use a flat carpenters pencil as a guage etc. when ajusting gaps. What I have found with my 70 dart is that it starts with the front fender to cowl gap. There is the curved part of the fender that can only really be set one way it sticks out like a sore thumb if too wide or too thin etc. then the doors are basically centered from there then mpoove to the front with centering the hood etc. this is my experience and I may be wrong. Yes its a bit of playing around and someone on here had mentioned "there is perfectionist then theres anal" it depends on the person as far as welding on wire to tighten gaps etc. it is also rumored that Mopars werent perfect from the factory either.
moparhunter
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My friend did the bodywork on my car told me he had the doors / fenders / hood on and off the car at least 10 times each . That being said the car alignment I feel is very very good.
More like 3/8” on my Roadrunner. But there has been no body or paint work done since it was new, and it was a sales bank car.
WymanV
..you said "member"...
25 years in the business and my process goes like this:
1. Doors first. MUST line up with the rocker panel, both straight gap and flush. Note the front of the door will also line up with the front edge of the rocker. The rocker is an anchor point on the car and isn't going anywhere. If the quarter panels were put on crooked it's on the installer. Moving the door to match a crooked quarter panel makes the door crooked too, prone to leaks and wind noise. And if it doesn't line up on a factory quarter you get to see first hand the factory didn't always get them straight either.
2. Hood. Gap between hood and cowl must be even and hood height flush with cowl. All the rest of the hood adjustments are on the fenders.
3. Fenders. This is the messy part. Front valance should be on too where applicable. Set the door gap first making sure the cowl lines up on both door and fender. You can still tilt the door in or out at this point without losing your rocker gap. The next fun part is making the front of hood and fenders line up. There may be some fore and aft adjustment necessary with hood and/or fenders to make it fit. Then square the fenders with the hood, being aware the rubber bumpers on the fender sides will set the hood to fender gap and the front post bumper will set the height. Don't put the latch in until you're sure it's straight (I remove the striker off the hood).
Everything I do alignmentwise is off the doors. I want those doors straight and square in the door opening so the seals seal and the door gives me that nice resounding A body "clump" when I close it. And when an issue comes up I have to remember it's not a Lexus; the factory didn't get it right all the time either. Case in point, my '72 Duster hood to cowl gap is closer to 1/4" in order for it to line up with the front of the fenders. There's no other way without getting the fender to door gap so close they rub and chip. Since it's a driver (I've coined the term "retromod" to define it and that's official
) and not a show car I can live with it. I'll be having too much fun driving it to notice.
1. Doors first. MUST line up with the rocker panel, both straight gap and flush. Note the front of the door will also line up with the front edge of the rocker. The rocker is an anchor point on the car and isn't going anywhere. If the quarter panels were put on crooked it's on the installer. Moving the door to match a crooked quarter panel makes the door crooked too, prone to leaks and wind noise. And if it doesn't line up on a factory quarter you get to see first hand the factory didn't always get them straight either.
2. Hood. Gap between hood and cowl must be even and hood height flush with cowl. All the rest of the hood adjustments are on the fenders.
3. Fenders. This is the messy part. Front valance should be on too where applicable. Set the door gap first making sure the cowl lines up on both door and fender. You can still tilt the door in or out at this point without losing your rocker gap. The next fun part is making the front of hood and fenders line up. There may be some fore and aft adjustment necessary with hood and/or fenders to make it fit. Then square the fenders with the hood, being aware the rubber bumpers on the fender sides will set the hood to fender gap and the front post bumper will set the height. Don't put the latch in until you're sure it's straight (I remove the striker off the hood).
Everything I do alignmentwise is off the doors. I want those doors straight and square in the door opening so the seals seal and the door gives me that nice resounding A body "clump" when I close it. And when an issue comes up I have to remember it's not a Lexus; the factory didn't get it right all the time either. Case in point, my '72 Duster hood to cowl gap is closer to 1/4" in order for it to line up with the front of the fenders. There's no other way without getting the fender to door gap so close they rub and chip. Since it's a driver (I've coined the term "retromod" to define it and that's official
) and not a show car I can live with it. I'll be having too much fun driving it to notice.
Good luck on the panel gaps. Just about the time you get one side done, you see problems on the other side. Take your time, don't let the frustration factor take over, If you do get frustrated, walk away for a bit and come back to it after taking a break. I know when I reassembled my 68
Barracuda, I almost lost my religion over it. LOL
Barracuda, I almost lost my religion over it. LOL
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
My Ragtop has 1/4 gaps. Did the car over twice. Once in 1985 and again 2020. Struggled on driver's door both times. Still isn't 100%. Wondering if door pillar got tweaked by previous owners or a mistake at the factory. My hardtop fell together easy and has 3/16 gaps mostly except at hood to cowl area.
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