Paying for floor replacement ?

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Indyducati

Indyducati

Steve
Joined
Aug 17, 2016
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Location
Indianapolis IN
I'm finding out the pretty 67 Barracuda I've recently bought is needier than expected.

The floor is much rustier than I realized.

I'm not able to do a project that big yet.

Do any of you have an estimate, or wildazguess what the bill might be to replace the floor and trunk floor ?
The cars a convertible, it'll need bracing, but have more working room ?

I guess while they're in there, let's add the sub frame connectors.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Pics? I would do a one piece pan if possible.

Doing mine now. I Would say for a real shop it would prob be a 3 day job at the going rate plus parts. Maybe more days if fabrication is required for structural rust repair
 
If the floor is bad in the passenger compartment you better look real hard at the trunk floor ,extensions and the frame rails at both ends .
 
I'll have a better assessment later this week, with photos.
I think I bought it well enough, I can spend some money
and not hurt too badly. I just didn't expect it so soon...
 
After doing a floor section, trunk, trunk extensions, outer wheelhouse, and quarters on my 71 Barracuda. I would say that replacing the floor is actually the easiest of the replacements to do. The welding is not hard because most of the spot welds are recreated doing plug welds and most of those are on frame rails and inner rockers, which is heavy gauge metal and easy to do. Taking the floor out is probably the hardest part. Oh yeah, I also replaced the deck filler panel.
 
I agree I don't weld but I was able to do all the removal , cleanup and even screw pieces into place with pan heads so all the welder had to do was show up and plug weld for an hour or so at a time , I did the back half of the rear frame rails , trunk floor , extensions , rear cross member and the rear valance plus bumper mounts in the trunk all in like 4 trips after dinner for the welder .
 
You guys are encouraging ! I never thought about a mobile welder !

I'm still concerned about bracing, as the floor is removed... I got a convertible.
Lots and lots of jack stands ?
 
Buy a welder and do it yourself if at all possible.
Welding is the easy part. Don't pay someone to do that. Learn.
Most of what you are doing won't even really show.
Welders don't cost much.
The work is in the removal and preparation.
Just like painting.
 
my car has sub-frame connectors and I didn't go forward of the trunk so I just used 2 jack stands to support the back half , I used a laser to level it before cutting it all apart and never moved it or the stands until it was back together level , in your case I would use 4 in front and 4 in behind the area you are removing ,all of them on the frame . Make sure it is supported in the air and everything is perfectly level before cutting then do it in sections like do the whole floor pan re and re before cutting out the rockers , check the doors close and line up perfect when doing the rockers but if the car is supported fully by the stands then it shouldn't move if you don't cut it all apart at once .
PS I have a FABO friend whose son did all my welding , he is a carpenter like me and charges his time at $40 an hour for that so I made him take $200 for his time , he was happier than a pig in poop for the extra cash and so was I . I suggest you track down or make a friend like that if you don't weld , the Lincoln welder would have cost me more than that to buy up here in Canada .
 
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Guys, , I don't need much reason to buy more tools :). I not adverse to welding, I've got basic knowledge. I've never welded anything that mattered.. I am also a little concerned about welding in our attached garage .
 
You all mention leveling the car on jack stands. That makes sense.. but what are you using for the reference plains ? Door sills? Floor pans? Rockers ?
 
I used the frame rails then confirmed it across the tail because I only did the back section of the car but in your case I would do the same but use the points I was placing the jack stands while being carefull to put the stands in the same location on both sides and level car front to back using the underside of the rockers . You might seaech the web for an alignment diagram showing the elevation points the body shop would have used back in the day to straighten a bent car .
 
Thanks Cannucky, that makes sense. I got a factory manual. I haven't opened it yet. I'll look there and online for alignment locations.

I've had an idea for additional support, beyond my jack stands. Using pieces of 4x4 posts, allthread and nuts to help prevent sagging.

I just sold a bunch of vintage bicycle parts. Nearly enough for a nice red mig outfit :)

This car is a surprise birthday present for my wife. I'm picking her up this afternoon in it !

I may not yet share how much work I have planned ;-)
 
good call , just stick with the line "It's your car , everything I do is for you" LOL never waiver eh !
 
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