Planning my winter upgrades

[DesertRat]

I am putting my Barracuda back up on stands in late October to fix the drivability issues which are not large but can be better. I already have the Moog offset upper A-arm bushings but I want to change my torsion bars as well. I need input on what T-bars to buy. The car is a road tripper car and cruiser 273 with power steering. I have new Monroe-matic+ shocks on it that will stay. The car has a front factory sway bar on it which I really like and stays. I am interested in two things.
Options on which T-bars to buy and what skoosh settings to ask the alignment shop for when its back together. The rest of the suspension was rebuilt on assembly with energy suspension poly components. Somehow I missed the offset upper a arm bushing deal so I get to do it all over again. I don't want to get it too stiff and I am considering adding a rear sway bar as well. I had both on my 65 Comet with KYB shocks and that car rode like it was on rails! Thanks to all in advance---------------------DR

 

[75slant6]

I personally would add at least the PST 1.03” torsion bars and tell the alignment shop to get as much caster as they can with -.5 to -.75 degrees camber. Since you have power steering, you’ll be able to run a LOT of caster. You May want to check about getting a set of tubular UCA’s instead of the offset bushings to be able to get even more caster. I was only able to get about 3* caster with my offset bushings and I got 7+ degrees with my QA1 UCA’s. I have 245 tires, manual steering and a smaller tuff wheel and the steering with 7* really isn’t bad at all and it drives GREAT!

 

[Commando66]

I assume that you have rubber bushings everywhere. Poly or polygraphite bushings make a big difference in the feel. Bigger sway bar would help too. Those shocks are not adequate for Grandma to get groceries at the corner store.

 

[DesertRat]

I'm glad to see some input. While waiting I have been researching this issue to make an informed decision. 1. The energy suspension kit in my front suspension is all poly, not rubber. 2. The 52 year old torsion bars are the ones the car was born with, ,85" dia. The car actually cruises pretty good at 70 mph. The shocks are replacing the hydraulic stockers that were ok but these will be better. I have overshocked cars before with KYB shocks and I wont to that again. The stock front sway bar was my choice purchased from a member at the beginning of my build. I have also over-swaybarred cars before and the stocker is perfect for the weight of my car. I know that the factory put the following torsion bars in 66 thru 69 A-bodies, .83, .85, .87 and .89. The .89's were for the 68/69 383/440 cars. Seems to me that Ma Mopar probably knew what she was doing so the way I see it .89" T-bars would be perfect for my car. I have read the entire thread on the 1.03" aftermarket bars and that is not an option. After reading through the relevant threads on the suspension forum I am planning the following:
I will remove the poly strut rod bushings and replace with rubber stockers. I will remove the poly stock configured upper a-arm bushings and replace with the Moog offset ones. While apart I will reinforce the lower control arms with the appropriate plates. Lastly I will source the A-body .89" torsion bars and install them with new keepers and adjusters. Then it will be off to the alignment shop.
I have the settings in my car that the shop was able to get on it along with what I was asking for. Needless to say, they couldn't hit my requested numbers but I bet they will be able to after the above listed work. Thanks to all for responding and reading--------------Rat out-----------------------

 

[75slant6]

Well, it’s your car so obviously you can do as you please but since switching my Duster to 1.03 bars I’ll never go smaller than that for a street car. In fact, if I buy new bars I’ll go 1.06 or 1.12. It just drives and handle SO much better. And that’s with all rubber bushings and Monroe shocks. But like I said, it’s your car, do as you think best