Pole building vs. block and stud garage

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I wanted the garage to be started already, but nothing yet as I am still clearing trees. As of now, I am going the stick building route for the garage. The size may change again. A 32 x 30 garage requires a permit, but no inspections. Anything over 1000 sq. ft requires several inspections. There are two reason that the size might change. First being the inspections and the other is a medium sized rock that we have near where I want the garage. With what is above ground, the rock is about 25' long and 10' wide and would be a couple of feet away from the foundation. Who knows how large it is under ground. I won't know that for awhile.

What is up in the air is the building behind the garage. I was thinking of a 12 or 16 x 30 or 32 foot lean-to attached to the garage to house wood and an outdoor furnace. The furnace would supply heat to both the house and garage.

Thanks for all of your responses.
Craig
 
Another thought, 30' is about where trusses get more expensive so a 2' reduction may save $$$.
 
My 30w x 26d structure allows two cars to have both doors open, and room for an 18" deep workbench in front, 18" deep shelving on all but one panel each side (for that door clearance) and still room to walk completely around both cars.

I'd love to have 28 or 30 deep. I think you will be happy with 32x30 or 30x30.
 
Chief correct, trusses over 30'. Now, you need a concrete floor- No difference between stick or block, or pole Stick or block only needs a 18" deep perimeter footer, using mono slab.. Block and masons cost more, but-stronger, less insulation, Tie beam at top; at least 16" with 4 #5 rebar. You can't blow that down. Trusses, get 2x6 bottom chords, hold big storage. Big doors about $800.

I built a block 32x30 in 1987, Free labor was one day of bbq and beer for 5 buddies to help with trusses and sheathing. Total cost, maybe 8000.

Buddy has metal built, days of his own bought insulation installed, The block came out cheaper, but this is north Fl.
 
Forgot; leave plumbing out untill the slab is inspected, then put excess material on the hubs, untill final inspection; then dig the illegal septic/drainfield.

Don't know how it is there. but here- permit it as a barn, electric co has to install service for free.
 
i went 30x40 pole. 10ft walls. sprayed with the icene foam insulation. then finished out in osb board. they my buddy does the foam insulation so it to spray the entire inside of the building walls,gables, roof was $2200. that stuff is awesome. i have central air and heat out there. it works great. have 40 yards of concrete, the building, labor paid and insulation i have around $12500 in the building,labor all materials,windows,doors etc. has 2x6 trusses etc. I love my building. only thing is now i wish i woulda plumbed it for sewer and water but i can spend sometime and get that done at some point.
 
...and if your code allows it, get 10' wide doors.

With that extra foot, you can walk through the door even if a car is partially in/out, and not have to squeeze, or risk scratching the paint.

Also helps if you have a tight turn right in front of the door.
 
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