por 15?

-

fonzy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
115
Reaction score
0
Location
st.louis, mo
Ok..I've decided on my plan of action on the floor pans, I'm going to spot weld them in and seal em up, I've got a weld through primer I'll use on the welding areas. My problem is the hat channels, I've got a soda blaster I used to get most of the surface rust off with, should I go ahead and use por 15 is inside of them where I can't get it really shiny clean?
 
I both love and hate por-15. It is a major ***** to prep the surface, the temp range has to be just right, it is a respiratory hazzard, will permanantly stain anything it touches, can take weeks to wear off of your skin if you get any on you and must be topcoated if there is going to be any sunlight exposure.

That being said, once it is properly applied it will stop an anti-tank missle and laugh at road salt. You will have to evalute your particular situation. I have never had to bother with a treated surface every again. -LY
 
I both love and hate por-15. It is a major ***** to prep the surface, the temp range has to be just right, it is a respiratory hazzard, will permanantly stain anything it touches, can take weeks to wear off of your skin if you get any on you and must be topcoated if there is going to be any sunlight exposure.

That being said, once it is properly applied it will stop an anti-tank missle and laugh at road salt. You will have to evalute your particular situation. I have never had to bother with a treated surface every again. -LY

Ditto almost to the word. :D
I have used it via a suction type sprayer setup to blow it into seams before also.
(After paper and taping everything I didn't want it to get on of course.)
 
Thanks guys..so a little rust isn't going to be a problem?

That's what POR15 does, stops rust.
Don't forget what I mentioned about blowing it into places that are hard to get at.
 
Used it yesterday on my trans cross member. Blasted it first, then brushed it inside before installing the new floor pan. Works great.....just wondering how long these black spots will be on my arms...
 
No need for POS 15, Rustoleum will do the trick just fine for chump change.
 
Used it yesterday on my trans cross member. Blasted it first, then brushed it inside before installing the new floor pan. Works great.....just wondering how long these black spots will be on my arms...

How old are you right now? :D




No need for POS 15, Rustoleum will do the trick just fine for chump change.

I have used both for a lot of different uses, and the POR15 has the major advantage in most area's.
Hard as hell when it's cured for one.
Soaks in deeper for two.
 
Same ... love hate for all reasons mentioned above.
Gotta, thoroughly clean and use the Metal prep for it to dig in.
 
POR stands for Paint Over Rust.

I restored my car 15 years ago and used POR15 on the entire undercarriage and wheel wells. When the POR was tacky to the touch, I sprayed my PPG single stage over top the POR. The POR dealer told me this trick and 15 years later, not one chip. In fact, i can still take a bucket of water and clean the wheel wells to almost look like new.

Maybe someone else can chime in on this, But at one time, didn't POR15 change names to KGB or KYB...something like that
 
Paint Over Rust, I did not know that. Thanx! :)

Sandblasted surfaces treated by their etching agent will soak the stuff right up. I had my tractor's frame stripped and prepped one warm, dry sunny September day and the POR soaked in and hardened up. I topcoated it and after ten years of hard use you can't find a ding on any treated surface.


One bit of grease or dirt and it will roll off. Shiny, smooth or factory fresh surfaces will not allow it to bond. POR loves nothing more than rusted up surfaces that have had the rough stuff blasted off and well cleaned. Took four days to do the prep and one hour to paint. Hate the prep, love the results. -LY

P.S. POR will not wash off anything! Skin, give it ten days to two weeks. Sorry.
 
-
Back
Top