Rule of thumb - take your vacuum at idle and devide it in half. Get the PV that is nearest that value. Round up if necessary.
If engine vacuum at idle is 6, half is 3 but PVs only come in 2.5 and 3.5 size so go to 3.5. etc.
Let's first of all look at the function of the power valve…when you initially stomp the throttle the front end of the carb is running 8 jet sizes smaller (right?) so it needs to catch up to the rear…we'll explain this off balance situation later. To determine the optimum power valve hook up your trusty vacuum gauge to the lower or below the throttle plate port, (on a Demon it's the small port that's closest to the firewall on the passenger side) now fire it off warm it up and drop it in gear. You'll probably see a reading of 4-20 depending on the amount of
overlap on your cam for this example we'll use 8. This is of course is after you have everything else set correctly in the idle circuits and the ignition timing. The formula is 1.5 to 2.0” below idle in gear vacuum, so we would use a 6.0-6.5 power valve in this example. This is the correct method and you should not vary from it. For a gear car (Standard tranny) we use 2” to 2.5” below manifold vacuum at idle in neutral.
If you look at a metering block where the P/V screws in, you’ll see two tiny holes,
these are called the "Power Valve Channel Restrictors", big name for a couple of little holes. This is where the fuel dumps through the power valve to richen the front half of the carb when you smack the throttle. Remember what I said about the 8 size smaller jets in the front…well the "Power Valve Channel Restrictors" dump fuel through the valve at a rate equal to a #8 jet sizes which gives you the correct balance we're looking for. Having the incorrect jet split will cause the P and S ends to operate at different Air/Fuel ratios especially during the transition causing stumble, hesitation and at WOT causing the engine to possibly lean out on ½ the engine
this will result in poor and inconsistent ET’s.