proper way to install these strut rod bushings

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chubsgts

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


i looked all over i cant find any posts about what way these should face
i installed them pointed end out of k frame tightened it all down and frankly the fit like crap half bulging out other half looks normal maybe i have the retainer washers on wrong large one inside frame and cup facing out sense it said this side against rubber.

front of k frame i installed the retainer washer with cup facing the rubber
i see alot of guys using the other style ones books just call them easy install or is it because they actully work better i am about ready to throw in the dame towel and put the cover on and walk away till next year i cant do one thing with some thing causing a issue this may be a small one but i just got my but handed to me by other post about my upper control arm bushings giving me all kinds of hell i worked pretty hard at getting all my peaces togather to do this right and not have issues.

guess i failed lol

chubs
 
Best way to install,
Throw those in the trash, and get a set of Moog bushings.
Problem solved.
 
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, Chubs. I must have installed mine wrong too. They were bulged out when tight and didn't last long. toolmanmike
 
theres a link right there to show u the bushing if it will help i can get you a pic of a bushing buldging out but i fig you guys would know what that looks like
 
Need pics, but if you installed the washers like you think they would go; wrong. The cupped part faces they other way, not to the rubber.
 
yea dont worry about it i returned them for the updated 4 pc style they work WAY better and fit alot better two
 
green1 said:
Need pics, but if you installed the washers like you think they would go; wrong. The cupped part faces they other way, not to the rubber.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look tomorrow.
 
Sorry to hijack, but I got a set of moog strut bushings and it shows sleeves in the instructions....???? I didnt have sleeves, and none in the Moog box??
 
Then somebody swipped um or they got left out.
 
72 back use those bushings, push them through from the back torward the front. 73 and up use the 2 peice and the new cups face female out. The 72 back have a shoulder built on the strut rod that the outside washer bottoms on. The inside washer has a bigger hole. The 73 up use a three piece with a sleeve so the strut does not have a shoulder built on it, and the strut rod is different. The length is different at the threaded end for the use of the two peice bushings, I you use three peice where one peice should be it don't bring the control arm against the pin at the innner lower bushing. You will have to pull it against with the nut. If you use the slip in urathane lower bushings , your lower arm will back up when driving from the length being to long between the arm an the strut bushing . The rule on a-bodies, if your front threads are fine threads use the one peice. if they are coarse use the two peice. I am not saying you can't get them in but it does throw the alignment out , sometimes enough that you have to get off set upper bushings. I will try to post pic's of the different strut rods tommorrow. I have been down this road on many occasions. And yes the front of the bushing will squash alot . These bushings are to hold the arm front while braking so the most of the bushing pressure is in the front. One other thing is never tighten your bolts on any bushing unless your car is at ride hieght. This puts the bushing in the middle of its travel and prevents premature damage from over twisting. If you tighten them when the car is in the air and then let it down you aready twisted them to their limit. Now when you hit a pump or dip they tear away from the sleave. Now they won't last that long and you will lose firmness in the suspension. Two peice strut bushings have a male an female make sure you face the male back to prevent it from coming out of the hole when under pressure from braking.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
72 back use those bushings, push them through from the back torward the front. 73 and up use the 2 peice and the new cups face female out. The 72 back have a shoulder built on the strut rod that the outside washer bottoms on. The inside washer has a bigger hole. The 73 up use a three piece with a sleeve so the strut does not have a shoulder built on it, and the strut rod is different. The length is different at the threaded end for the use of the two peice bushings, I you use three peice where one peice should be it don't bring the control arm against the pin at the innner lower bushing. You will have to pull it against with the nut. If you use the slip in urathane lower bushings , your lower arm will back up when driving from the length being to long between the arm an the strut bushing . The rule on a-bodies, if your front threads are fine threads use the one peice. if they are coarse use the two peice. I am not saying you can't get them in but it does throw the alignment out , sometimes enough that you have to get off set upper bushings. I will try to post pic's of the different strut rods tommorrow. I have been down this road on many occasions. And yes the front of the bushing will squash alot . These bushings are to hold the arm front while braking so the most of the bushing pressure is in the front. One other thing is never tighten your bolts on any bushing unless your car is at ride hieght. This puts the bushing in the middle of its travel and prevents premature damage from over twisting. If you tighten them when the car is in the air and then let it down you aready twisted them to their limit. Now when you hit a pump or dip they tear away from the sleave. Now they won't last that long and you will lose firmness in the suspension. Two peice strut bushings have a male an female make sure you face the male back to prevent it from coming out of the hole when under pressure from braking.
Click to expand...




there is alot of good info in there BUT
some of that im not to sure on because ma mopar books would not agree lol

shows a sleeve for the 4 part bushings lol in 68 dart book even thou the one peace bushing its correct for 68 >>>how does that make sense mopar lol as for my washers there all org and all the holes were the same size washers were two different sizes
and yes i bought moog ones and guess what no sleeves they sell it in 4 different part number kits some with some with out i took what i could and made sleeves just like my moog upper cntrl arm bushings and they spacers that i didnt get nice
 
I went to the parts shed and grabbed a set of strut rods for a 72 back (top in pic) and a 73 up (bottom in pic) You can see the difference in length flang to flange And also the room for the bushing between the washers . The washers on the 72 back canot be reversed to mimmic the 73 up. You were right about the washer diameter on the 72 back it is the bolt that bottoms on the sholuder. There is no way a 2 piece for a 73 would work on the on a 72 back correctly. The parts manual for 68 looks to be picturing a b-body. This is just some info you all might want to know. Pictures do not lie the rod lengths are different.

View attachment DSCF0224.jpg

View attachment DSCF0226.jpg

View attachment DSCF0227.jpg
 
great info on strut rods, this question pops up & your pictures are perfect, thanks, Lawrence
 
Great info!! Thanks, I will chk and maybe post pics of my new Moog bushings and my strut rods.
Thanks
4spdragtop!!
 
well i threw the org style one peaces back in the box to return and i installed the new moog 2 peace ones yesterday and now i find out i may have messed up

im running the 72 and back bars with the updated bushings every one said to use
with my original washers sense i had them coated but my washers are flipped out wards like in a female direction sense that side face towards rubber or what i think the washers are doing on your 73 and up bar hard to tell but i think u have them flipped in a outward cup direction.
and im also running a small sleeve i built sense my kit was lacking it and the book shows it about 1" 1 1/4" just enuff to help center the bushings up to each other and have some squash room.
i also made sure when i was installing all this that i tightened the nut on the front slowly by hand intill the bushings came centered into the hole sense they have that raised metal ring that should fit into the frame
 
chubsgts said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


i looked all over i cant find any posts about what way these should face
i installed them pointed end out of k frame tightened it all down and frankly the fit like crap half bulging out other half looks normal maybe i have the retainer washers on wrong large one inside frame and cup facing out sense it said this side against rubber.

front of k frame i installed the retainer washer with cup facing the rubber
i see alot of guys using the other style ones books just call them easy install or is it because they actully work better i am about ready to throw in the dame towel and put the cover on and walk away till next year i cant do one thing with some thing causing a issue this may be a small one but i just got my but handed to me by other post about my upper control arm bushings giving me all kinds of hell i worked pretty hard at getting all my peaces togather to do this right and not have issues.

guess i failed lol

chubs
Click to expand...
Man, you're not alone.
 
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