Push rod length

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Kendog 170

Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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My 1976 440 /500 440 Source stroker kit with Stealth heads. I have adjustable stainless bushed rockers . Push rods are ball/ball factory length for hydraulic lifter . My geometry is fine. I'm going to go solid cam and lifters. Does anyone know the length pushrod needs to be for solid cam and lifter setup set up ?
 
Rmoore said:
Use the same ones you have now, as long as they are the correct length for the setup you have now !
Click to expand...
Ok, I always thought they differ in length from hyd. to solid but I'm no expert .That's why I asked. Just didn't want to be into it and have to order and wait for a new set .
 
Solid lifter pushrods tend to be about .25" - .30" longer than hydraulic applications because the lifter "cup" is lower in the lifter body. Kind of like a bottomed-out hydraulic lifter. i.e.: 273 small block solid adjustables = 7.500" ball/cup vs 340 Six Pak hydraulic adjustables =(approx.) 7.21"-7.23" ball/cup. But there can be differences between lifter manufacturers. Best not to take anything for granted.
 
Kendog 170 said:
My 1976 440 /500 440 Source stroker kit with Stealth heads. I have adjustable stainless bushed rockers . Push rods are ball/ball factory length for hydraulic lifter . My geometry is fine. I'm going to go solid cam and lifters. Does anyone know the length pushrod needs to be for solid cam and lifter setup set up ?
Click to expand...


Ok, I’ll ask. Did you actually check your geometry? Because if it’s not on the money, now is the time to fix it. And fixing it will require longer pushrods.

As PRH said, measure twice, but one. Or something close to that.

I just hate to see questionable or even “close” geometry go when you are right there and can nail it down.

Your valve train will thank you for it in more, stable RPM and longer guide and valve job life.
 
I did that 6 years ago. I have a good sweep on the valve stems and no issues. My engine sounds like crap with the hydraulics when idling . Others I've discussed with have had the same issues with the Cam I have and either lived with it or went solid or roller. I lived with it for 6 years because the car runs so good. I have 3 broke teeth on my converter (whole nuther story) and decided to make the change after lifting the body off the Motor.trans. and suspension.I have an adjustable pushrod I can still use from the 1st time. If I have to adjust a few more turns I'm just concerned about having too many threads exposed under the rocker. I forget how many thousanths per turn of the adjuster it is. I have a couple of threads showing now.
 
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