Pushrod length

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alyak

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I have a 360 and as I went to put the pushrods in, realized they are too long. I need pushrods that are 5/16” diameter, and 7.2” long with a cup at one end. I am having trouble location these pushrods, or even cut to length rods that are cup and ball. Does anybody know where I can find these, or can I take the tip off my current pushrods and cut them?
 
Smith Brothers pushrods can be ordered per the required length. 65'
 
Sorry, looks like 7 1/2 OAL.

20231225_143057.jpg
 
I have a 360 and as I went to put the pushrods in, realized they are too long. I need pushrods that are 5/16” diameter, and 7.2” long with a cup at one end. I am having trouble location these pushrods, or even cut to length rods that are cup and ball. Does anybody know where I can find these, or can I take the tip off my current pushrods and cut them?
I have to ask, what changed? Summit sells a 7.3 ish. It's the answer for running 273 adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters.
 
I have to ask, what changed? Summit sells a 7.3 ish. It's the answer for running 273 adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters.
Not sure why, but these rockers are way too long and they are the 7.342 or whatever it is. When setting pre-load I had to adjust the rockers way out and don’t have much clearance between the rod and bottom of the rocker itself. I will send photos.

IMG_6346.jpeg


IMG_6347.jpeg
 
Ya that's too close. Generally you want to have a turn and a half visible under the rocker. And yes if you have good rods you can take them apart and shorten them. That said I have 3 sets of Smith Brothers on 3 different engines.They have shortened a set for me in the past for like 6 bucks each. Great people.
 
Ya that's too close. Generally you want to have a turn and a half visible under the rocker. And yes if you have good rods you can take them apart and shorten them. That said I have 3 sets of Smith Brothers on 3 different engines.They have shortened a set for me in the past for like 6 bucks each. Great people.
Thank you, I will contact them
 
If you have a lathe and a .080ish wide parting tool you can grab the push rod in the Chuck and take that parting blade and machine away the push rod tube from the parting line where the cup meets the tube.

Once you hit the stem on the cup stop cutting and tap the end back down on the pushrod.

Ive gone as much as .125 shorter doing that but…most push rods are only reamed about .125 extra doesn’t the tube.
 
I have to ask, what changed? Summit sells a 7.3 ish. It's the answer for running 273 adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters.
Not in my case. 340, Comp cam, 273 rockers, J heads.......7.069 OAL was needed using an adjustable push rod checker to measure. Don't understand why either.
 
Not in my case. 340, Comp cam, 273 rockers, J heads.......7.069 OAL was needed using an adjustable push rod checker to measure. Don't understand why either.
Probably decked block and milled heads. A lot of measuring will tell the story.
 
I don't mean to highjack the OP, But what's the proper method for using a adjustable checking pushrod? HF cam and non adjustable rocker arms.
 
Measure the pushrod length with the valve on the seat and the lash at zero. Add .060-.100 to the length and order.
I read this all the time and have questions.
All the pushrods rods are out except the adjustable and resting on the base circle.
The stock non-adjustable rocker assembly and arms are installed and snugged/tightened down to achieve 0 lash on the "base circle"...I get lost here.
How is this possible without tightening the whole length of the rocker assembly...5 bolts until it is seated on the rocker shaft pedestals? Or can I just tighten the 2 bolts that isolate what ever intake or exhaust lifters/valves I'm checking the preload on, ideally what should be all "4 corners?
Going backwards, I'm assuming it is best to check the intake side?
 
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