Put new rotors on 73 Swinger and pads are rubbing!?

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Bandius

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I just got this car rolling, and went to change out a broken wheel stud and found a very worn rotor hidden behind some newer pads, so I ran to NAPA and bought 2 new rotors with pads and bearings and threw them all back together. I BARELY managed to get the caliper on, had to compress the C clamp as hard as i could till the piston was flush with the rubber boot. Took the clamp off, put the rattle plate and wheels back on, started the car up and pumped the breaks and the pads are still rubbing to where i can barely move the tire if i push it with my foot. Both tires are rubbing eqaully like this.
I was told the piston may not be retracting all the way, and i havent torn them apart yet, but I'm worried that NAPA sold me too thick of a rotor. They were made in Canada and have what looks like cooling fins on the side facing the motor (counter guy said it was the ABS style).
Does anyone know the maximum rotor thickness for a 73' dart? Each of the old ones look like one side was turned down half the width of the opposite side, I'm not sure if that was stock, or someone else ran into the same problem or if it was just turned down to smooth out some older damage.
If It is just the calipers giving me grief should i just buy a new pair? I do have minor damage on one piston boot, but no leaks.
Just how far is a piston supposed to push out? These seem to move out about a Quarter of an inch when I had my girlfriend push the breaks for me while i had the caliper off.
 
Since you have both new rotors, and pads, it sounds like they both are out of tolerance with one another.
The easy "fix", easy way out, of that problem is sand down the brake pad lining to you get clearance for the rotor to turn freely.
Just get yourself a sheet or two of 60 grit sandpaper, put it on the floor, and then sand down the pad lining.
Probably will be trial and error, but that will work.
 
Had the same problem with my soon to be ex-'76 Dart. Bought the Canadian rotors and had problems with the pads. Threw in a set of lightly used ones and life was good. What hemi71x said is true. But don't ditch the Canadian rotors. They are the good stuff. Check out some of the cheap rotors out there and you will see a big quality difference.
 
Should i take off the vibration sticker that came with the pads? Also would it work just to wear the pads down just by leaving them on and driving till they spin free, or would that take too long and warp the rotors or something?
 
your last message was correct, but do it in small trips as to not over heat the brakes. this is very common with after market parts. A couple 5 mile trips should cure the problem!
Al
 
I always made it a practice to turn new rotors. Sometime I found when miked, the newrotors were a tad too wide. Also, when they sit on the shelf for long periods, they can warp. I just always took a light "skin" off the rotors before I used them. JMO
 
If it took an inn ordinate amount of pressure to retract the caliper pistons, then you might need to rebuild the calipers. I just had this exact issue with my Jeep. A set of rebuilt calipers solved the issue. But in my case it was glaringly obvious that there was a problem, as the pistons did not go in easily. If the rotors turn out to be in spec, look to the calipers, I'd say.
 
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