Question on a race 8-3/4 axles.
- Thread starter Cudafever
- Start date
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With the green bearing you do not need the button but as expense as they are don't throw it away.
As for the inner axle seals some people use them an some don't .
As for the inner axle seals some people use them an some don't .
I think it needs to be in two pieces to be installed. So dont center punch it unless you can buy another pin cheap.
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
Just bag them and tuck away, you or someone else might need it.
If you just want to pass them on. The ones in my 8 3/4 are toast, ill pay shipping 
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Yeah, still available 35 bucks or so at YO. I'm sure other outfits sell 'em.
B-Body 1962-74 - Charger - Road Runner - Super Bee -- Wheels - Brakes - Rear Axle / Rear Axle - Components / Thrust Spacers /
I would run the inner seal, the bearing is sealed and greased the gear oil will get in the grease and may or may not mix plus the gear oil can get past the o-rings and seep on to the brakes, I have seen this before,
Here is a picture of a kit for sale
Here is a picture of a kit for sale
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That is a picture of the old style original Green bearings.
Do not run them. Get the new type that has the snap ring around it.
This is the one to use.
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From dr diff site
The need for non-adjustable wheel bearings
Most of these problems can be avoided by installing non-adjustable sealed ball “Green” wheel bearings. The name comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. The company has since been purchased by Bearing Technologies.
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.
First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).
In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.
Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.
Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.
I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design
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It's hard for me to believe that the housings aren't straight and if they are off you need to straighten them. I have done 10 or so housings most D60's cut them down and weld on new ends and when my friend ran late model stock cars we did a lot of 9" fords.
If the axle slides in nice without the o-ring on the outside of the bearing then it will work fine and wont ware out the bearings or cause a failure, and if you look at the ad that you posted for green bearing it ask what inner seal do you need, no where does it say leave them out. I'm just saying. I just cant see the point of leaving out the seal.
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Maybe you need more motor to flex the housing. I wasn't referring this to the Dana 60 but I'm sure that they Flex also otherwise they wouldn't put that aluminum back cover on there with the bolts to brace the inner caps.
That was not an ad. It was Dr diff posting of why he doesn't use the early bearings. Which was the question that I was asked what was wrong with the early style bearing.
I'm happy that you can narrow an Axle and Slide the axles in with no problem.
As for the inner axle seals I repeat some people use them and some people don't. You will notice in the bearing set that I posted it did not include an inner axle seal. But the old style that you showed has them. So it gets down to if you want to use them use them if you don't want to use them you do not have to.
Do you have a problem with my not following you blindly? If so pm me and lets see if we can work it out.
Fyi every Ford 9" i have ever touched had inner axel seals. I would use them in an 8 3/4 with green bearings.
Dr Diffs ad ask what inner axle seal to include for $8.00 or none if you have them. That is the way I read it.
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
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It does not say "none if you have them."
It says "none".
As in you don't want any.
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In a situation where your housing flexes I can understand you wanting to run that inner axle seal to keep the oil from escaping.
I forgot to tell you Happy Birthday.
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My thought is....if it has a smooth surface for the seal.....Its probably a good idea to add a seal.
I didn't buy the green bearings i bought the hole axle with the green bearing installed.
If the racing axle had a provision for the inner seal, then i will use it.
I didn't buy the green bearings i bought the hole axle with the green bearing installed.
If the racing axle had a provision for the inner seal, then i will use it.
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