Questions about a 2006 5.7

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RockinRobin said:
What is your oil pressure at idle on a cold motor?
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With the Ethos on it, read 75-85. Its the new High volume Melling pump that is supposed to fix these issues on a 145K mile motor. I just knew the problem area of these 2007 blocks were losing pressure when idling for a long time, which is where this started, just let it run and hear it make noise. That went to driving it home (3.5 miles) to see if there was still noise and had me questioning oil pressure first.
 
Check out this video by MMX. He goes step by step. I went plus .050 and rounded to the closest number. I bought my push rods from BTR and they had the length I needed in stock. I am using an early short block with eagle heads and stock thickness head gaskets on E85 and 8-10 psi. I used an old pair of push rods cut them and chucked them in a lathe and made my own push rod measuring tools. Not sure if any of this helps but I wanted to throw it out there.
 
anotheridiot said:
With the Ethos on it, read 75-85. Its the new High volume Melling pump that is supposed to fix these issues on a 145K mile motor. I just knew the problem area of these 2007 blocks were losing pressure when idling for a long time, which is where this started, just let it run and hear it make noise. That went to driving it home (3.5 miles) to see if there was still noise and had me questioning oil pressure first.
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That sounds like some darned good oil pressure! My racing 5.7 has the high volume Melling pump and with 10w40 oil I get about 75 psi on a cold startup. I would love to see 80 to 85!
 
Problem being I never checked it hot when the noise starts and now have the coils and valve covers back off which is not an easy task. I was expecting the rockers to be loose, but again, it gets loud when it's hot. So the head expanding makes more sense. I just thought it would be interesting for some to know the preload has changed for morels. I have the cheapest option of lash caps coming, .040 and .080 if I find that number. Still not ruling out oil pressure.
RockinRobin said:
That sounds like some darned good oil pressure! My racing 5.7 has the high volume Melling pump and with 10w40 oil I get about 75 psi on a cold startup. I would love to see 80 to 85!
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so, exhaust pushrods are supposed to be 8.080. Do the measurement and it is 7.980, so 8.080 would be .100.
Try to check the work. Keep tightening the pushrod checker until the exhaust valve remains open, turn it back to close, measurement is 8.119. That gives me .134 travel in the lifter.
Does it sound like the pushrods are already too long and when they expand do not allow the lifter to refill with oil since there is only .034 in travel left?

the intake side is really hard to adjust, but came up with the same scenario.
 
So, decided to shim the rocker stands to see if the clearance was the issue. I probably hurt myself again, but since I was compressing the oil out of the lifters I checked, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and spun the motor over just trying to be safe and getting oil back in the lifters. Put the fuel pump relay back in and it wont start. Spits and sputters and dies. Leads to the ADS crap. No fuel, no spark, no run. Now I could have hurt the connector at the cam sensor, or I might have just had the fuel pump decide to go out. How do you eliminate the ADS first before replacing everything else?
I am feeling good about the pushrod lengths now, so I must have broken something else.
So far I fully charged the battery, checked all connectors to make sure everyone is plugged in, just disconnected the EGR, cps, 4 passenger coils, 3 passenger injectors, 1 drivers injector, moved the relay boxes out of the way and disconnected the battery. I tried to swap relays in both the ADS and fuel pump and still nothing. I dont see any reset procedure, saw something about key on key off key on key off key on deal that did nothing.
 
I hate to say it but I still think you have the junk lifters and that is the source of your lifter problem.

No idea why it won’t run though.
 
My engine is a 2005 short block from an 05 Chrysler 300. Heads are port matched and blended Eagles using stock length Eagle push rods, stock head gasket and modified Grand Cherokee exhaust manifolds. 60 psi oil pressure cold and 35 psi at temperature. This thing has a bit of compression and runs great on 94 octane fuel.

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Mrbelvedere said:
My engine is a 2005 short block from an 05 Chrysler 300. Heads are port matched and blended Eagles using stock length Eagle push rods, stock head gasket and modified Grand Cherokee exhaust manifolds. 60 psi oil pressure cold and 35 psi at temperature. This thing has a bit of compression and runs great on 94 octane fuel.

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can you share some picks of your modified exhaust manifolds please. this would solve alot of problems for guys that dont want the long tube headers for the price. I run the long tuubes but currently working on a 6.4 for my demon.
 
I know you were not asking me. These were manifolds from a ram and it just took the bigger flange and a couple of short curves. This is the harder passenger side.

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anotheridiot said:
I know you were not asking me. These were manifolds from a ram and it just took the bigger flange and a couple of short curves. This is the harder passenger side.

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thanks, I am curious to see what was modified on the Cherokee exhaust manifolds. I have been told no way, no how on those by numerous guys. we will see.
 
Kiddart1 said:
can you share some picks of your modified exhaust manifolds please. this would solve alot of problems for guys that dont want the long tube headers for the price. I run the long tuubes but currently working on a 6.4 for my demon.
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I don't have any pictures of the Grand Cherokee exhaust manifolds. They were only modified internally. Right side manifold was not touched on the outside and the left just needed a small relief for the steering coupler.
Kiddart1 said:
can you share some picks of your modified exhaust manifolds please. this would solve alot of problems for guys that dont want the long tube headers for the price. I run the long tuubes but currently working on a 6.4 for my demon.
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DionR said:
They bolt on but the compression ratio when combined with the pre-eagle pistons is pretty high. There are fixes, and might work for some as is too. Just pointing it out.
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2005 short block, stock non mds cam, stock head gaskets, stock Eagle heads.

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We did swap to eagle pistons. I guess I just need to know if these engines are generally noisy at idle. Just humms when the loud pedal is mashed and absolutely no missing power at all. Just figure to live with the noise until it breaks before changing the cam all over again.
 
anotheridiot said:
We did swap to eagle pistons. I guess I just need to know if these engines are generally noisy at idle. Just humms when the loud pedal is mashed and absolutely no missing power at all. Just figure to live with the noise until it breaks before changing the cam all over again.
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The only thing I've noticed is loud injector tick.
 
anotheridiot said:
We did swap to eagle pistons. I guess I just need to know if these engines are generally noisy at idle. Just humms when the loud pedal is mashed and absolutely no missing power at all. Just figure to live with the noise until it breaks before changing the cam all over again.
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Yes, they will be noisy at idle, the lower the idle the worse it's gonna be. My race car idles at 1500rpm with a high volume oil pump to guard against that issue.
 
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