jasonmrenda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2009
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according to allpar.com:
The 4 pin box, with single ballast resistor: again, “start” is only hot (+12V DC) during cranking, and “run” is hot (+12V DC) from the moment you turn the key on, through crank, and after crank.
so i thought i had tried testing this and nada.
i put the key switch in "on" and the lights came on (not starting cos i didnt want to fry the starter) and took my multimeter and with 1 lead i checked each of the 4 wires that were connected to the ballast (/6 car, points setup originally converting to ECU). other lead from meter is touching the cars frame for a ground.
i didnt get any readings on the meter at all. i was using the 20v scale - maybe that is too high? or do i need to check the wires while actually turning the motor over to get a reading?
The 4 pin box, with single ballast resistor: again, “start” is only hot (+12V DC) during cranking, and “run” is hot (+12V DC) from the moment you turn the key on, through crank, and after crank.
so i thought i had tried testing this and nada.
i put the key switch in "on" and the lights came on (not starting cos i didnt want to fry the starter) and took my multimeter and with 1 lead i checked each of the 4 wires that were connected to the ballast (/6 car, points setup originally converting to ECU). other lead from meter is touching the cars frame for a ground.
i didnt get any readings on the meter at all. i was using the 20v scale - maybe that is too high? or do i need to check the wires while actually turning the motor over to get a reading?
