Quicktime clutch fork question

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Rt1976

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I'm mocking up a Jerico behind a small block for my drag car project. I'm trying to use a Quick Time bell designed for the Jerico to SBM. I cannot get the clutch fork in the side hole when the pivot bracket is installed. (A-body clutch fork, w/ A-body Quick Time bracket) I searched and saw other threads that mentioned the hole was on the small side but has anyone successfully installed the fork from outside the bellhousing. Or is this something that needs to be done fed from the inside with the transmission out? Is there another fork option?

Thanks
 
The fork goes in from the inside then put trans in. If you have the QT bell for the muncie/jerico this bell is not as deep as the factory bell and you have to run a chevy length input shaft, the mopar will be too long which leads to other fitment problems, pilot bearing, trans mount, driveshaft length. I used the QT bell for the 833, 3 of the 4 holes are already there for the Jerico the fourth can be drilled and taped and a mopar input on the Jerico and factory pilot bearing. P.S. check and see if there is a spot for a chevy pivot ball you may have too use a chevy clutch fork but not sure of that.
 
Thanks for the reply. I figured it had to go in first after messing with it. I have the model 6083 which has a height of 7.4" which I believe is the same as factory mopar. I laid it next to an old Lakewood I had on a 340 and height looked dead on. My Jerico has an 18 spline mopar input so I hope to not have any fitment issues. It only came with mopar fork pivots as well.

Agree /disagree?
 
Now comes the fun part. I found that the fork pivot from QT didn't work, the A body fork ended up to short from the pivot to the throwout bearing and fork came out of bell to high for proper clutch linkage alignment and where the Z bar bracket bolts on with the starter flexed too much even with the Mcleod soft lok clutch. I found a fork pivot on Brewers site that moved it in and down and then made a spacer too move it out for proper fork swing, then welded a strap from the starter boss back too the bell to stop flex. I then made a new Z bar bracket with 4 bolt holes, one more on top and bottom to strengthen up the area.
 
If you are going to use an adjustable clutch you will have too drill a 1/2 inch hole in the bell for the ball end allen wrench to go through. Mine is on passengers side next too trans main body between upper and lower trans mount bolt holes, You have to measure out from center for bolt circle for the 6 adjusters on pressure plate and transfer the measurement to the bell. Then mark your harmonic balancer 1-6 were the adjusters line up with the 1/2 inch hole for easier track adjustments.
 
Not to sure if you ran into this problem but with my Mcloed soft loc clutch , quick time BH and jerico (18 spline) set up there wasn't enough room for the TOB and the shift fork. I had to space my engine to bellhousing out 3/16 to have enough room for the TOB to the clutch fingers+ some room for adjustment. Spaced this out with washers being careful to make sure they were all the same thickness. If you run into this issue and you have the time to do it I would purchase a couple extra block savers and cut everything out except what bolts to the engine for a spacer. Hopefully you don't have this issue . Good luck
 
Have to modify the trans cross member. And be prepared to pound a few spots in your tunnel for shift rods and heim joints.
 

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It fits really tight to the top of the tunnel but it does fit. I modified how the reverse shift rod went around, had to go move it about 4 " , I used some all thread bolts with a few nuts for adjustment just to get around the cross member. I don't have a pic of that.
 

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