Here in Australia it is very common and works a treat. There are two systems available both behind the K frame.
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Very similar in appearance to the old Uni-steer systems.
“works a treat” is a bit of a stretch, they have worse clearance issues than the original steering link, sit too low and can induce bump steer, and probably limit the turning radius a bit as well.
And I don’t know about on the right hand drive, but the steering linkage angles to hook that up on a left hand steer are pretty steep.
A rack & pinion is better than a recirculating ball. Make sure you have no bump steer if you get a rack and mount it yourself.
Rack and pinion offers ZERO performance improvement over a worm and ball. None. All you eliminate is the small, on center dead spot. But that should be small. It’s like no one here knows how to adjust a steering box or replace tie rod ends and pitman/idler arms.
Like I said at the beginning, front steer basically requires a full coilover conversion to do it right for geometry. Rear steer is just as problematic for clearances as the worm and ball steering box, except nobody makes the parts to clear it so it all has to be custom. And it’s still not easy to keep the geometry where it needs to be.
The list
@go-fish posted in post #22 is what you need to get rear steer to work without hammering your geometry, and modified custom oil pan and custom headers are on that list. As well as some extra steering goodies with the quickener and extra joints. And the Jess Neal ‘Cuda that list is from still has reduced steering angles, although he seems to deal with just fine on his Pike’s Peak runs.
