Rattle can clear??

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Yes,but the only way you get a true clear coat from a aerosal can is if you buy the 2K. Which is a two part clear. Eastwood sells it and a couple others. Easy to use and works good. wear a respirator.
 
R4Sedan said:
Yes,but the only way you get a true clear coat from a aerosal can is if you buy the 2K. Which is a two part clear. Eastwood sells it and a couple others. Easy to use and works good. wear a respirator.
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well my clear is engine paint clear. I didnt relize that you wanted to clear paint. Thats because I'm stupid and drink to much! :drinkers:
 
Depends on the job you're doing and the results you want. Personally, I would steer clear ( no pun intended) of rattle clear. It has a tendency to flake within months.
 
Should have provided more info...sorry.

Going to try to get all the parts pulled from my chopper and swapped to the other frame over next winter. Going to have a bare fuel tank, oil tank and fenders. Don't want to put any $$ into the body work until after the bike is ridden and any bugs that may be present are chased away. Was going too just rattle can prime it...but the 1.6 miles silty dirt road out is going to be a nightmare to keep it even remotely clean with the porosity of primer. Suppose I could prime/sand/prime/sand but if I can just hit with a clear coat just seems to make more sense...at least from my fuzzy point of view...
 
inkjunkie said:
Should have provided more info...sorry.

Going to try to get all the parts pulled from my chopper and swapped to the other frame over next winter. Going to have a bare fuel tank, oil tank and fenders. Don't want to put any $$ into the body work until after the bike is ridden and any bugs that may be present are chased away. Was going too just rattle can prime it...but the 1.6 miles silty dirt road out is going to be a nightmare to keep it even remotely clean with the porosity of primer. Suppose I could prime/sand/prime/sand but if I can just hit with a clear coat just seems to make more sense...at least from my fuzzy point of view...
Click to expand...

I like it,Ink. (your concept...) Don't prime it..... If you have access ,to a local Napa, see if the can put clear into a rattle can. (When I used to mix Martin Senour paint, you mixed paint straight off the toner banks, could load it in a spray can.) An outside option Doug, that Eastwood setup , is interesting.
 
Abodybomber said:
I like it,Ink. (your concept...) Don't prime it..... If you have access ,to a local Napa, see if the can put clear into a rattle can. (When I used to mix Martin Senour paint, you mixed paint straight off the toner banks, could load it in a spray can.) An outside option Doug, that Eastwood setup , is interesting.
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I have used rattle can clear for yrs., used to put it on alum. intake manifolds. worked well until you spill gas on it, will yellow a little over time. don`t remember the brand name tho.
 
Painted my engine bay all rattle can. Custom mixed gy9 and high dollar clear, push a button on the bottom of the can to break the hardener and you have to use in 1/2 hour. Got good results.
 
Did the scoop bezels on the E-body hood job on Jake's 65 with Rustoleum Automotive Clear. Gave them 3 coats of clear over rattle can silver - turned out really well.
 
Abodybomber said:
I like it,Ink. (your concept...) Don't prime it..... If you have access ,to a local Napa, see if the can put clear into a rattle can. (When I used to mix Martin Senour paint, you mixed paint straight off the toner banks, could load it in a spray can.) An outside option Doug, that Eastwood setup , is interesting.
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Thanks. Meant to ask the NAPA I deal with but forgot when I was last there. Plan is for it to be a short term thing...but knowing me it will become permanent. Thanks to the dirt road the chopper gets washed with a pressure washer. Have a pump style weed sprayer filled with Simple Green. Spray it down, rinse it off and hit it with the air hose to dry it. With that being said really don't see the point of painting it...
 
I assume you're referring to the frame primarily. Have you put any thought into powercoating it? It is a very hard, durable, lower cost alt to paint...
 
Rocky_JS said:
I assume you're referring to the frame primarily. Have you put any thought into powercoating it? It is a very hard, durable, lower cost alt to paint...
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Frame and swingarm will be powder coated. The clear will just be for the fuel tank, oil tank and both fenders...
 
HemiMark said:
well my clear is engine paint clear. I didnt relize that you wanted to clear paint. Thats because I'm stupid and drink to much! :drinkers:
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Off topic but..

Is there such a thing?

Unless you are out of your favorite beverage or flat on the floor then you do not drink to much!

Rattle can clear is fine if your just hitting small pieces and just want to protect them better.
 
1969383S said:
Off topic but..

Is there such a thing?

Unless you are out of your favorite beverage or flat on the floor then you do not drink to much!

Rattle can clear is fine if your just hitting small pieces and just want to protect them better.
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:thumblef:
 
Back home we use to use liquid laundry detergent mix with a wster 5 to 1 water in a spray bottle on motocross bikes didn't have to use high pressure washer then as it pushes dirt into seals etc and kot as harsh as simple green


inkjunkie said:
Thanks. Meant to ask the NAPA I deal with but forgot when I was last there. Plan is for it to be a short term thing...but knowing me it will become permanent. Thanks to the dirt road the chopper gets washed with a pressure washer. Have a pump style weed sprayer filled with Simple Green. Spray it down, rinse it off and hit it with the air hose to dry it. With that being said really don't see the point of painting it...
Click to expand...
 
barty005 said:
Back home we use to use liquid laundry detergent mix with a wster 5 to 1 water in a spray bottle on motocross bikes didn't have to use high pressure washer then as it pushes dirt into seals etc and kot as harsh as simple green
Click to expand...

I never pull the soap nozzle out of the pressure washer so I don't have any troubles with gunk getting past seals...

Visited my buddy at NAPA today. His store hasn't mixed paint in 20 years or so. He has a lacquer ready to squirt clear coat....
 
inkjunkie said:
I never pull the soap nozzle out of the pressure washer so I don't have any troubles with gunk getting past seals...

Visited my buddy at NAPA today. His store hasn't mixed paint in 20 years or so. He has a lacquer ready to squirt clear coat....
Click to expand...

Wow... I don't know about where you are at, the Napa distribution center for your store,should have a paint mixing bank in house your store can order from. I know Eastwood Products is doing catalyzed enamels in rattle can,as well.
 
inkjunkie said:
Should have provided more info...sorry.

Going to try to get all the parts pulled from my chopper and swapped to the other frame over next winter. Going to have a bare fuel tank, oil tank and fenders. Don't want to put any $$ into the body work until after the bike is ridden and any bugs that may be present are chased away. Was going too just rattle can prime it...but the 1.6 miles silty dirt road out is going to be a nightmare to keep it even remotely clean with the porosity of primer. Suppose I could prime/sand/prime/sand but if I can just hit with a clear coat just seems to make more sense...at least from my fuzzy point of view...
Click to expand...

Check out Eastwood's Elastiwrap. It will cover your sheet metal & protect it, then when you're ready to do the bodywork & painting on it you can just peel it off.
If you try to clear coat right over bare metal it really won't adhere to the bare metal. Bare metal has to be etched & primed for the paint to bond. Also you will hate it when you have to strip it all down to bare to recoat or do bodywork.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/elastiwrap-coatings.html
 
I just did the eastwood hi temp clear and am not real impressed. At first it looked beautiful over the engine paint, then once the heat hit the engine it wrinkled real bad on the valve covers. I have them off now stripping them and starting over.
 
Abodybomber said:
Wow... I don't know about where you are at, the Napa distribution center for your store,should have a paint mixing bank in house your store can order from. I know Eastwood Products is doing catalyzed enamels in rattle can,as well.
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There is a NAPA that deals only with paint I believe here in Spokane. At least I think there is. There is a real good paint supply house on Market St.,
http://www.nationalautobody.com/catalognab/
Kevin is a great guy to deal with.
Lonewolf3165 said:
Check out Eastwood's Elastiwrap. It will cover your sheet metal & protect it, then when you're ready to do the bodywork & painting on it you can just peel it off.
If you try to clear coat right over bare metal it really won't adhere to the bare metal. Bare metal has to be etched & primed for the paint to bond. Also you will hate it when you have to strip it all down to bare to recoat or do bodywork.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/elastiwrap-coatings.html
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Thanks for the info on the plastic wrap. A neighbor is going to do the body and paint when I want it done. Mike has a machine from
http://dustlessblasting.com/
so stripping it will not be a problem. I will be doing some reading on the Elastiwrap...
Thanks again for the info...

Vitamin c said:
I just did the eastwood hi temp clear and am not real impressed. At first it looked beautiful over the engine paint, then once the heat hit the engine it wrinkled real bad on the valve covers. I have them off now stripping them and starting over.
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Will not be spraying it, if I do, over anything that gets hot.

I very well may just rattle can prime it for the short term...
 
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