rear end seal/bearing removal?

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freshayr

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I posted a while back that I thought I was developing too much heat in my rear. It is a 68 Barracuda with a 8.75 sure grip. refresher- This was a new rebuild about 5 years ago. It has sat around since then until I put the car together last year. Of course the guy that rebuilt it really doesn't want to hear about my problems since he did it 5 years ago for someone else.
I have about 700 miles on the rear. It has now developed a leak in the front seal where the yoke is. I got ahold of an infrared temp sensor yesterday. After some driving, the center section was about 100 degrees. it was a hot day here yesterday and I checked my daily driver and that was about 100 degrees also. When I shot the front section where the yoke is, and I assume there's a bearing right there, it was 120 degrees. I had only driven about 8 miles. I think I've determined that is where the heat is comming from. Is there a bearing there? How hard is that to change? Do I need to pull the center section to do it? Anybody got any ideas or experience here?
 
yes there is a bearing there and yes you have to pull the center section to get to the bearing. I don't think you need to pull the center to change the seal though but I am not 100% positive on that. You will have to pull the yoke off to change the seal. As far as the temp goes....I have never got a reading off of my 8 3/4. You might wanna check the fluid level to make sure it is right......after a fresh fill you need to drive it for a bit and re-check it cause some will flow out the axel tubes and you'll need to top off the center section. If it's not making any funny noises or it feels smooth with no abnormal dragging while turning by hand I'd check the fluid level and change the seal.
 
i pulled the drive shaft and spun the rear a couple weeks ago. Everything feels really good there. Spins free, just an ever so slight play or backlash. I am just concerned why would a new seal go bad. What would stop it from going bad again.
 
Well if it sat for 5 years they can dry rot depending on the storage environment.......or a bad seal or installed wrong. Lots of things.......could have gotten tweeked when the yoke was installed. If it was me I'd change the seal and let her eat.
 
I third that thought, had an engine on a stand for 6 or seven years (yes, I know, it is a long time) was a fresh engine, with new seal and gaskets all around and even has the special rear main bearing with the groove in it to help prevent oil leaks from the rear main, when placed on said stand, put engine in car this last winter, AND now I have had the front seal puking oil like a dang sieve, r & r'd that, then discovered the rear is leaking a bit too. GD cars. Best we can figure is that sitting for that long the rubber seal must have stuck to the crank and when we started it it tore a little.
 
krabysniper said:
I third that thought, had an engine on a stand for 6 or seven years (yes, I know, it is a long time) was a fresh engine, with new seal and gaskets all around and even has the special rear main bearing with the groove in it to help prevent oil leaks from the rear main, when placed on said stand, put engine in car this last winter, AND now I have had the front seal puking oil like a dang sieve, r & r'd that, then discovered the rear is leaking a bit too. GD cars. Best we can figure is that sitting for that long the rubber seal must have stuck to the crank and when we started it it tore a little.
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It most likely was that your seals were dry and they burned when you finally started your motor. I always use a light grease my seals on assembly that way they have some sort of lube on them until they get lube on there own.
 
Seals were lubed HEAVILY when the engine was put together, it sat for 6+ years, I don't care how much lube you put on, if it sits for to long you will have a problem. Thus the reason musuem cars and show cars that never or almost never get run always seem to leak when they are finaly run a little. (And the reason I will always DRIVE my Dart so longs I can find gas to put in it, LOL)
 
if you pack the spot between the outer dust lip and the inner lube lip of the seal with grease it will stay lubed for longer than the rubber will last.
 
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