Rear Fenders 65 cuda

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What exactly are you trying to accomplish?
Stripping parts for use or cutting bad from yours?
Either way your choices are going to be
A. Cut off wheel
B. Sawzall
C. Plasma cutter
 
Do you have replacements already?
If not keep in mind these quater panels are very hard to come by in a solid condition. Patch panels are now available, but I am not aware of complete panels though.

I would research and have in hand the replacement panels before doing any removal of the complete quater.
 
yeah, we've got another Cuda we're taking them from. they aren't 100%, but they'll be easier to work with then the ones we have on it.
 
When you get the paint off you will see the lead on the sail panel (where the gold body filler is on the photo)and toward the front corner of the back glass as in the photo. Spot welds run along the front edge of the quarter at the door opening, along the bottom on the pinch strip to the fenderwell, along the bottom edge of the fenderwell, across the bottom of the rear quarter bottom to the rear valance, then up the valance to the tail light opening, through the middle of the tail light opening, all along the top under where the chrome strip lays (as you can see in the photo)to the lead at the front of the back glass.

spot weld 2.jpg


spot weld 1.jpg


100_3504.jpg
 
Grimreaper, are you sure there are spotwelds at the front edge of the quarter along the door opening? In the '66 Dart, the door jamb is part of the quarter. Are Barracudas different?
 
that's kind of what i need to know, where all the seperation points are.

When you get the paint off you will see the lead on the sail panel (where the gold body filler is on the photo)and toward the front corner of the back glass as in the photo. Spot welds run along the front edge of the quarter at the door opening, along the bottom on the pinch strip to the fenderwell, along the bottom edge of the fenderwell, across the bottom of the rear quarter bottom to the rear valance, then up the valance to the tail light opening, through the middle of the tail light opening, all along the top under where the chrome strip lays (as you can see in the photo)to the lead at the front of the back glass.


NO NO NO! the quarter is seamed in the middle of the tail light opening, then along the top under the stainless spears, then under the lead on the "top" of the front portion of the quarter and turns into the bottom of rear quarter window about mid way, the jam is part of the quarter so the spot welds there are under the door seal. The the quarter is welded to the top of the door sill then you can see the seam between the rocker and the quarter, the wheel well and lower rear of the quarter is the same as any other car, be careful at the rear valance because the valance is welded over the quarter.
 
I have done this, I think if you seam the quarter just inside the first bend in the jam, it will go a lot easier since the welds at the door sill area are a nightmare. I would take the ones off your parts car first so if you mess something up, you can always reuse a portion of the original quarter.

I don't think they are welded along the rocker panel, at least the ones I took apart weren't. They just had a lot of seam sealer that held them together there.

Also use a good spot weld cutter on the car you want to keep and not a drill, it will make installing the new quarter a lot easier.
 
NO NO NO! the quarter is seamed in the middle of the tail light opening, then along the top under the stainless spears, then under the lead on the "top" of the front portion of the quarter and turns into the bottom of rear quarter window about mid way, the jam is part of the quarter so the spot welds there are under the door seal. The the quarter is welded to the top of the door sill then you can see the seam between the rocker and the quarter, the wheel well and lower rear of the quarter is the same as any other car, be careful at the rear valance because the valance is welded over the quarter.

That is what I thought... the jamb is part of the quarter. Darts and Barracudas are similar. I would recommend using the original jamb if at all possible.
 
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