Rearend modification costs?

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Kent mosby

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I have a 73 scamp that I am putting a 440 in. I need to change the 7 inch rear. Finding an 8 3/4 inch is hard around here. North Idaho. What would be the cost estimates for using a B body 8 3/4 housing and have it cut to size and new perches and axles. Someone has to have done this. Ford 8.8 inch rears are plentiful. What would it take to make one of those work? Any suggestions? Other options? I am just getting started on this so I will have many questions. Great site for answers.
 
Another option would be to get a housing for an A body and get the suregrip pumpkin and axles. How much would that cost?. If I could pick up the housing for 700, would that be good?
 
8 3/4 B body with the right wheel offset no modifications if it is early B body like a 67. When you talk cost are you talking labor. An 8.8 will cost you total from 200.00 for complete with discs and figure another 150.00 to 400 for a drive shaft. The drive shaft you will have to do regardless of which rear you are gonna do. There is an 8.8 Seap thread on this site that has all the info.
 
I have a 73 scamp that I am putting a 440 in. I need to change the 7 inch rear. Finding an 8 3/4 inch is hard around here. North Idaho. What would be the cost estimates for using a B body 8 3/4 housing and have it cut to size and new perches and axles. Someone has to have done this. Ford 8.8 inch rears are plentiful. What would it take to make one of those work? Any suggestions? Other options? I am just getting started on this so I will have many questions. Great site for answers.

Another option would be to get a housing for an A body and get the suregrip pumpkin and axles. How much would that cost?. If I could pick up the housing for 700, would that be good?

you're looking at nearly the same cost no matter which way you go. 500-1000 depending on exact parts sourcing. By far the easiest is going to be the 8.75 from an A body. they pop up on here from time to time with costs ranging from 300-1000+. Watch some of the other forums as well. I got my 8.75 2 years ago via moparts.com for 325 bucks complete with a sure grip and 3.23s. just had to drive two hours to get it.
 
or if you're going to do a swap and have to cut an axles down... get a truck dana 60, cut it to A body length, get the correct bolt pattern axles and boom, have a bullet proof rear behind that 440.
 
With a Dana can can you run your exhaust all the way out the back?
yes, in most cases. Unless obstructed by 4 links, panhards or if the exhaust is huge in diameter.
 
I have the 8.8 but if I had it to do all over again I would have just left the 8 1/4 in it. I don’t race it much just a couple times a year. I have gone from 7 1/4 to 8 1/4 to b body 8 3/4 to 8.8. Got my money back every time but not my time. Do your research stick to your plan Don’t wait to upgrade save and do it all at once.
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I have a lot more to read. That thread is long. Since I am just beginning the work on the car, I have some time. That being said, I will keep my eyes open for a complete 8 3/4 and talk to a rear end shop
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I have a lot more to read. That thread is long. Since I am just beginning the work on the car, I have some time. That being said, I will keep my eyes open for a complete 8 3/4 and talk to a rear end shop
check with a local machine/welding shop as well. Or if there is any race car fabrication shops around, check there too. Sometimes that's cheaper and higher quality than a regular rear end shop.
 
Remember A body stock 8 3/4 have small bolt pattern axles. People will argue that the 8.8 comes out to the same price but it is far from true. Unless you sit and wait for the deal of the day. The 8.8 swap could save you several hundred
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I have a lot more to read. That thread is long. Since I am just beginning the work on the car, I have some time. That being said, I will keep my eyes open for a complete 8 3/4 and talk to a rear end shop


Don't bother with an 8.75 as its not worth it.

Just do a Dana 60 and dont look back.
 
Thanks @el5dart I did not know about Dr Diff. I just saw this a couple miles from here. Dana 60 from a truck. $100

Would that be a good place to start. Shorten to length, new perches, axles etc.

dana 60.jpg
 
Thanks @el5dart I did not know about Dr Diff. I just saw this a couple miles from here. Dana 60 from a truck. $100

Would that be a good place to start. Shorten to length, new perches, axles etc.

View attachment 1715216410
then get these .

7400 - 8 3/4" Mopar & Dana 60 Housing Ends - Moser Engineering

and these

7205 - 2 1/2" Wide Leaf Spring Mounts (Ford/Mopar type) - Moser Engineering

and then whatever axle shafts you want, moser, yukon, strange etc, some brakes from doc diff and call it a day.
 
It is from a 1991 f250 rear. Where can I check for "fit"?
 
Don't bother with an 8.75 as its not worth it.

Just do a Dana 60 and dont look back.

NEGATIVE...built CORRECTLY the 8 3/4 will hold up to some serious power more then a few 9 second cars using them..as for the "bullet proof" dana 60 seen more then a few "grenade" at the track..
 
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