Refurbish Plastic Dash Pieces

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dcdman67

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Hi all. I am looking for some tips, best practices, and paint codes/colors for restoring my instrument bezel and radio/heater plate. They need some TLC and I am wanting to repaint them to look new. Is this feasible?

Thanks in advance
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Hi all. I am looking for some tips, best practices, and paint codes/colors for restoring my instrument bezel and radio/heater plate. They need some TLC and I am wanting to repaint them to look new. Is this feasible?

Thanks in advanceView attachment 1715016860 View attachment 1715016861
You can have it done professionally ,such as at Instrument Specialties in Kingston,R.I.,but it will cost you close to a grand.Or do it yourself...Easy off oven cleaner to strip it,which I have used,and works good,but takes over 24-48 hours (there are other solvents also,but be careful,you don't want to melt your bezel!).Then use plastex repair kit for damaged,cracked areas (you can find it on Amazon,the company is in Las Vegas I believe.)Then mask (probably paint plastic adhesion promoter, primer , satin black,argent ,and chrome,in that order).The problem is chrome,no matter what you buy for paint,it won't have the reflective characteristics of the vacuum metalized aluminum process,which the pros do.And I have found it almost impossible to find a shop to do just that.If you can live with that,do it yourself! PS:I tried Spaz stix mirror chrome paint,and others.They are just allright.A lot of you tube videos on chrome paint.
 
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As noted above there is no do it yourself chrome so you need to decide if you can live with a silver or argent instead of reflective chrome.
There's a "dull aluminum" by Krylon that is a very close match for Mopar argent.
I used Simple Green to strip old chrome & paint. Then used plastic adhesion stuff and then regular paint, first primer then argent, then flat black and light coats of clear till it had the right look. I make sure to use the same brand of paint to avoid compatibility issues.
Oh it can be a lot of masking. I did a '66 Barracuda dash and if I had tondo it again I would just paint the whole bezel Argent and not have the black areas.
 
As noted above there is no do it yourself chrome so you need to decide if you can live with a silver or argent instead of reflective chrome.
There's a "dull aluminum" by Krylon that is a very close match for Mopar argent.
I used Simple Green to strip old chrome & paint. Then used plastic adhesion stuff and then regular paint, first primer then argent, then flat black and light coats of clear till it had the right look. I make sure to use the same brand of paint to avoid compatibility issues.
Oh it can be a lot of masking. I did a '66 Barracuda dash and if I had tondo it again I would just paint the whole bezel Argent and not have the black areas.
As noted above there is no do it yourself chrome so you need to decide if you can live with a silver or argent instead of reflective chrome.
There's a "dull aluminum" by Krylon that is a very close match for Mopar argent.
I used Simple Green to strip old chrome & paint. Then used plastic adhesion stuff and then regular paint, first primer then argent, then flat black and light coats of clear till it had the right look. I make sure to use the same brand of paint to avoid compatibility issues.
Oh it can be a lot of masking. I did a '66 Barracuda dash and if I had tondo it again I would just paint the whole bezel Argent and not have the black areas.
I have used a company called Gcartrim.com Look them up. They list prices and they in fact do chrome plate plastic parts. They are also top notch as far as the quality of their work goes and I think the prices are very reasonable..... Check them out.....
 
Big question, do you want to go all original? Or make it look good? I am in the process of restoring my pieces right now to make them look good. Here is a pic of my center piece that goes over the radio and heater controls. I wish I had a before picture, because mine was even worse shape than yours...the split-window part was broken so I cut it to be a single window. Lots of dings and dents.

First step is sanding it down by hand, especially the flaked off chrome. I got by with sand paper but wished I had waited for my variety pack of emery cloth to come in. Final sanding was with some scotch-brite. Sanding won't take long since it's plastic. You will have trouble sanding around the lettering and in the little corners, I sure did, just do the best you can. To fix any dings, dents, or cracks use epoxy for plastic.

The lettering in the pic I posted is done with a silver Sharpie marker. Cheap, effective, looks good, easy to touch-up later if needed.

I painted the entire center piece with adhesion promoter followed by satin black spray paint for plastic. If you aren't familiar with adhesion promoter look it up, it's essential for plastic, it comes in an aerosol can and acts as a primer, it leaves a very very thin layer of glue essentially.

Since this center piece is missing the wood trim I am going to replace it with self adhesive wood grain shelf liner. They have a wide variety of it in craft stores, Home Depot/Lowes and on Amazon. I'm going to find some that looks close enough to stock. If you aren't wanting to replace the wood trim I'd just leave it whatever color you choose to paint it. This is the easier option especially since your dash cluster is missing the wood trim also.

The big question you need to ask yourself is, is the chrome important? Specifically around the perimeter of the dash pieces? If it is and you want it all original looking you're going to need to send the pieces off and spend big $$$. If you want to make it look good with Chrome, use adhesion promoter followed by chrome spray paint (chrome spray paint for plastic if you can find it). If you're careful and patient. you can do wonders with chrome spray paint. I didn't want to deal with chrome trim, and since the interior of my 71 Dart is black, I am going with black trim around all of my dash pieces.

***side note, the mounting design of these center pieces is pretty bad. They mount in 3 places, 2 screws at the top, the radio knobs, and 2 studs in the middle. The 2 studs in the middle are the problem. They go through the dash frame and through the heater controls. You can't tighten the nuts on those studs very much or you will break the bosses that they screw into on the plastic. If those nuts aren't tight on the studs that's the main source of dash rattles, the heater controls. Pro-tip: remove the studs and cut off the bosses. Attach the heater controls directly to the dash frame (so behind the center piece) with 2 little bolts/nuts or even 2 zip ties secured down nicely will work. The center piece will cover that up and still mount securly with the 2 top screws and to where the radio knobs mount.

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I used a fine tip silver pen from a business supply store for the narrow areas after using a rattle can on the large areas. Not perfect but the car is not either. Can get you pics if you want.
Yote
 
Saw a thread on Facebook of a guy using this Rustoleum Bright Metalluc Finish paint. His finished product is shown in the picture. I'm experimenting on an old bezel I have to see how well it can be taped off and painted. Planning on doing the whole deluxe dash on my 70 duster this way. Going to use carbon fiber inlays from DMT and will paint the heavy textured parts black. The rest will be painted with this paint.

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Hi all. I am looking for some tips, best practices, and paint codes/colors for restoring my instrument bezel and radio/heater plate. They need some TLC and I am wanting to repaint them to look new. Is this feasible?

Thanks in advanceView attachment 1715016860 View attachment 1715016861

you could find a spray chromer. I got mine done for 175.00 for all. He did have to redo the radio bezel twice since he put too much primer on and it blurred the letters
before "real" yellow top Easyoff oven cleaner(note to self do not by generic oven cleaner or the "enviromentaly safe blue top easyoff, doesn't work)
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After cleaning(sprayed and put into a dry cleaning bag to keep it from drying out too fast) with still a bit more to do in the problem areas after 1 hour soak.
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spray chrome (not from an spray can) I had him spray using spectra chrome machine .
the link to the machine
Spectra Chrome ... Advanced "Spray-On" Chrome Technology

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here you can see that I had to have him redo the radio bezel since he sprayed wayyyyyy too much material on the bezel (hey 3rd time was charm but it totally sucked getting the stuff off to reshoot)
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After touching up the paint
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and updating the gauses(oops still have to do the numbers)
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Thanks for all the tips. I have some prep work to do this week and am looking to spray them this weekend.
 
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