Remote oil filter setup

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gtmopar

Phuckin A!
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Who's running them and which is the best one to get? I read that number 5 cap needs to have a plug installed in it? Read it in a book but didn't know if it was necessary and why. My headers on my 65 are so close to the filter that I don't want to deal with a major pain in the *** every oil change. I have a 90 but that still can be a serious pain. Any suggestions? Thanks
Rick
 
Canton Racing has very nice billet pieces. I have them, but the remote mount is not in use yet. I do however, am using their billet block plate for a regular spin on oil filter. Very nice piece, sealed by an O-ring instead of a gasket.
 
Canton Racing has very nice billet pieces. I have them, but the remote mount is not in use yet. I do however, am using their billet block plate for a regular spin on oil filter. Very nice piece, sealed by an O-ring instead of a gasket.

Link
 
Thanks James. Do you know if you have to plug anything off on the rear main cap to run that? I read on my how to hotrod smallblock chrysler book and it mentioned something about that.
 
I did this with the 90 degree mount and Hooker super comps in my '65.
It worked.......I was really concerned about leaks , but once I get everything tightened up , it worked fine.
 

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Thanks James. Do you know if you have to plug anything off on the rear main cap to run that? I read on my how to hotrod smallblock chrysler book and it mentioned something about that.


If you bypass the stock filter pad to plumb the remote filter , you will need to do it differently.
But most kits utilize the stock oil inlet / outlet and a plate style adapter that screws onto the filter pad , so you don't need to plug anything.
On my R block , I was cleaning out the passage at the bottom of the inlet with a carbide burr and got too deep. ( easier to do that you'd think ) and had to go in from the back of the block to use pipe plugs and close off the passage.....then I tapped the oil outlet at the filter pad and ran the line to a remote filter.
You can then route it back into the inlet side at the filter pad , or with the R block , it is commonly run into the front China wall where there is a 1/2 NPT port for this purpose.
 
Trans-Dapt, been with my Signet for over 25 years, no leakage, no problems and in different locations as well...
 
Thanks guys you've covered my questions. So off the 90 how did you plumb the fittings? Is that like a universal Chevy kit that you added AN fittings too? That's exactly what I'm looking for. So as far as getting in there and deburring the 90 what would you recommend? It's such a damn tight squeeze as you know and there is a perfect spot on the inner fenderwell to mount it. Plus it adds a bit more capacity.
 
I went in with a small carbide looking to clean up where the drill bits intersected when the factory machined them. I was not hogging , but found water jacket really quickly. I freaked out , but Ryan J from Shady Dell speed shop told me that this is common and had done the repair many times.
Unless there is a real restriction there , I'd probably leave it alone knowing what I know now. But if the block is still in the process of being machined , you can clean it up a little. If it is assembled and ready for install , definitely leave it be.
I have the universal transdapt adapter off the 90 degree filter boss and -10 AN fittings and line from there out.
 
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