Removal & Installation of the Cowl...

-

MoparMike_87

"Sh'Dynasty. That's S H comma-to-the-top Dynasty."
Joined
Jun 6, 2015
Messages
189
Reaction score
21
Location
Bemidji, MN
Has anyone on here removed, replaced, or re-installed a cowl? I have no idea how to go about doing it so that it goes back on like it was meant to be there.

Thanks All!
 
I have not done the cowl panel but I am in the middle of both sides of the trunk gutter and the lower corners of the rear window on a 69 Dart.

You are in for a good bit of work. I have nearly finished the L gutter. You will become Expert with a spot-weld cutter and you will need to develop some welding skills. The welding will be even more difficult due to the remaining sheet metal being thin due to the rust. If you will need to do either gutters of the trunk or the window corners, now is the time.
 
I did mine on my duster. Not that bad if the car is stripped. I melted the lead seam with a propane torch, lots of spot welds to drill. I removed my new cowl from a doner car before they was repoping them. I welded all my holes shut and ground them down. Dura glassed the lead seem after spraying epoxy.
 
Has anyone on here removed, replaced, or re-installed a cowl? I have no idea how to go about doing it so that it goes back on like it was meant to be there.

Thanks All!
do you have some pictures of what you got there that would help
 
20170816_153333.jpg
20170816_153351.jpg
 
Be ready to do a lots of work and be careful..
good job never replaced a cowl panel the only thing I would have done different is to not use a spot weld cutter. I grind the spot welds and leave as much pinch weld as I can. but that's not to say you did wrong we all do things different. Good job I would like to see some of the new bodymen out there do what you did.
 
Excuse me for jacking. Fred, when you talk about grinding the spot welds explain how you would do that, with what?

PSegarra, what did you topcoat the POR-15 with?

BTW: I apologize for Post #2, I was thinking rear cowl as that's what I am fighting with right now!
 
Excuse me for jacking. Fred, when you talk about grinding the spot welds explain how you would do that, with what?

PSegarra, what did you topcoat the POR-15 with?

BTW: I apologize for Post #2, I was thinking rear cowl as that's what I am fighting with right now!
Hold on I'll send you some pic's
 
I grind the spot weld down through the first layer or close then use a hammer and big knife to separate the two. when I get it apart then I use the small grinder to finish it smooth. spot weld cutters cost to much and are to easy to go through both layers and you have less area to weld to when you go through to far
 
Get and try one of these. A pack is pricey but they last a good long while

15181486752621565193591.jpg


15181487195041557375620.jpg
 
They work good and it's really but It's a pricey way to go
George I was looking through some post and saw that you restore cars at your shop for 35 an hour At first I thought that was way to cheep our labor rate is 60 an hour and in the oil field it's 70. when I really look at the way you do It I'd rather do what you are doing than deal with the insurance co. they are getting more and more harder to deal with and I'm tired of there bull
 
Excuse me for jacking. Fred, when you talk about grinding the spot welds explain how you would do that, with what?

PSegarra, what did you topcoat the POR-15 with?

BTW: I apologize for Post #2, I was thinking rear cowl as that's what I am fighting with right now!
POR-15 was wet when I took picture. No top coat,
 
Spot weld cutters are super easy. Yeah sure, you’ll break a couple before you get the hang of it, but after that they last a long time. I think I used 4 to do the 200 spot welds to remove the roof skin from my parts Dart. Two in the first 10 minutes :BangHead: and then 2 for the whole rest of the skin. And sure, you’ll punch through a few times too but if you can’t weld up a 3/8” hole you probably shouldn’t be doing whatever it is you’re doing anyway. The holes in the top layer make for easy welding when it comes time to reinstall the panel, the surrounding metal is the original thickness and the flanges aren’t all bent out of shape from prying the layers apart.

And when you’re done everything is held together with welds that are about as similar to the originals as you’re going to get without a brand new panel and a fancy spot welder. Same size, same placement, same number.
 
good discs and they do make a big difference on the brand you buy
For the thick ones I stay with the 3m, I've had cheap ones explode on me. The thin Blue Hawk ones are ok(Harbor Freight). Not as good as 3m but not as bad as some others.
 
POR-15 was wet when I took picture. No top coat,
POR 15 makes a metal prep. rust remover and pre primer that I have used on some projects and It works really good so far. Did a tanker truck the tank was really rusty, the tank was solid rust and the only thing I did before putting the POR 15 paint on was use the metal prep no sanding no wire brush. that was 2 years ago and no rust showing on the tank yet.
 
Spot weld cutters are super easy. Yeah sure, you’ll break a couple before you get the hang of it, but after that they last a long time. I think I used 4 to do the 200 spot welds to remove the roof skin from my parts Dart. Two in the first 10 minutes :BangHead: and then 2 for the whole rest of the skin. And sure, you’ll punch through a few times too but if you can’t weld up a 3/8” hole you probably shouldn’t be doing whatever it is you’re doing anyway. The holes in the top layer make for easy welding when it comes time to reinstall the panel, the surrounding metal is the original thickness and the flanges aren’t all bent out of shape from prying the layers apart.

And when you’re done everything is held together with welds that are about as similar to the originals as you’re going to get without a brand new panel and a fancy spot welder. Same size, same placement, same number.
That's good being able to make a spot weld cutter last that long, not me I'm hard on them and break to many. I can use a grinder faster and better. But it is all in what you get use too.
 
That's good being able to make a spot weld cutter last that long, not me I'm hard on them and break to many. I can use a grinder faster and better. But it is all in what you get use too.

It’s just practice, like anything else. Once you get the drill speed down they’ll last a long time if you don’t side load them a ton, you get a feel for when you’re doing something that’ll break ‘em. And you can use them missing a tooth or two if you’re careful.

Might have been necessity for me though, no way I can be precise enough with a grinder to do that stuff. I’d have a whole lot of welding to do.
 
The spot bits for me do better on a 1/2 air drill inch turning slower with some more power behind them. Also some cutting fluid helps. Wurth spot bits are about the best ones going
 
-
Back
Top