Removal of front K-frame

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Umm, Torsion Bars dont have nuts, I suspect you removed the strut bar nuts from the front of the k-frame. (that's ok) You need to loosen the bolt that's located on the inside of the lower control arm to take the slack off the torsion bar. Dont drop the K frame till the bars are out. There is a c-clip on each side rear torsion bar remove that with some luck they'll side back easily.
 
the clips are in the back of the trans xmember. just needlenose to remove them. there is a tool that clamps around the bar so you can drive it out. but before you do that, did you loosen the torsion bar adjuster bolt all the way?
 
Haven't removed and/or loosened anything yet other than the nuts shown in the attached pic.....

Susp01.jpg
 
OK, guys, NOW I get it. What I removed was the nut for the lower control arm pivot bolt (duh, I think somebody told me that) The tension is off now, the clip removed. Now how do I grip the bar without using Vise Grips and/or gouging the bar? I know there's supposed to be a tool, but how 'bout some home-brewed Yankee inginuity?
 
Thanks guys, would not have attempted it without your advice & encouragement. Hat's off to all of you! :salut:

It's out!!(1).jpg
 
Is that undercoating or paint?(the black stuff?)
I checked into having my K-frame powdercoated- they quoted me $125.00 to strip, blast and powdercoat, which seems pretty reasonable to me. Anybody know of any reason why I wouldn't want to powdercoat the K-frame?
 
That is POR15 with Glossy Rustoleum on top, I even did the Kframe with that. I've heard of some people taking spray cans of the truck bed liner and spraying underneath. Seals it, protects it, and looks like undercoating. I might try it.
 
Eric_S68 said:
Easier written than done but here goes... Remove engine / tranny... Steering Column. Disconnect upper ball joints, loosen torsion bars till slack, remove rear retaining clips n whack the bars to the rear with a large brass drift pin. 4 Big bolts to go and it should all drop out on ya. Hope I didnt forget anything :)
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Can anybody tell me how to use a drift to hit these?
 
GTGrinly said:
Can anybody tell me how to use a drift to hit these?
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You don't need a drift pin to drive them out!
After you back off the tension and remove the clip out of the back of the torsion bar just get an old pair of vise-grips and lock them on the bar as tight as you can and hit the grips with a big hammer,it may take a few good whacks to drive them out because they fit pretty tight in the lower control arms.
 
I pulled mine today. I suggest buying a torsion bar removal tool. Its a lot easier then a pair a vise grips.

IM000370.gif
 
May I suggest you drill a small hole (the size of the spray nozzle extension tube that comes taped to the side of the can....) directly through the frame rail where the threaded portion of the K member bolt will poke through the rail at all 4 locations. Now spray a LIBERAL amount of your favorite rust penatrant and let it soak overnight. If your K member has been in the car from day 1 you *might* have some corrosion issues. Strip one of those bolt holes and you'll be pissed beyond pissed.After everything comes apart, weld up the holes you drilled or at least seal it off.



Believe it or not, but this DID'T happen to me! But I know the guy whom still won't talk about it happening to this day...


**** JUST REALIZED THERE WAS 2 PAGES OF HELP AFTER I SUGGESTED THE DRILLING AND SOAKING. YOU GOT IT OUT! CONGRATS! ****
 
AdamR said:
I pulled mine today. I suggest buying a torsion bar removal tool. Its a lot easier then a pair a vise grips.

IM000370.gif
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That's true Adam but if you don't have the right tool you gotta use what works.
Hell i've even made my own tools because i didn't have the right tool for the job.
 
I've used the Vise Grips, Its hard to get them clamped on tight so they dont go flying when you hit them. I think I paid $20 for the tool of ebay and I've used it enough times that it was worth every pennny.
 
FASTBACK340 said:
May I suggest you drill a small hole (the size of the spray nozzle extension tube that comes taped to the side of the can....) directly through the frame rail where the threaded portion of the K member bolt will poke through the rail at all 4 locations. Now spray a LIBERAL amount of your favorite rust penatrant and let it soak overnight. If your K member has been in the car from day 1 you *might* have some corrosion issues. Strip one of those bolt holes and you'll be pissed beyond pissed.After everything comes apart, weld up the holes you drilled or at least seal it off.


I like that suggestion and if those bolts are stubborn I'll do that. So far everything came apart very easily, just hand tools. Got one torsion bar out by hanging a pipe wrench on a little crooked and giving it a few good hits, after I took my knife to the back side of the mount and cleaned around where the clip was. The other side I didn't try too hard, I figured I ask the question before I broke something. I saw the tool in my service manual, and now that I know they are available, I'll try to get one. The right tool always seems to make the job just that much easier.
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Only bummer with the torsion bar removal tool: Headers get in the way.
This may not be true for all headers, but I bought the tool, and it wouldnt fit anywhere because my TTI headers were in the way. But as long as you are removing the engine it should be easy!
 
use vise grip brand and nothing but that brand, take it from one that's tried them all. what is the bolt size holding k frame in and what is socket size please. ron
 
Latching on to a torsion bar with a vice grip or any other tool that digs into or gouges into it is a very bad thing indeed. I wouldn't even dream of re-using any that had that done to them but if you do, be sure to dress them down with a file, otherwise I strongly suggest replacement of the T bars. Gouges cause stress cracking and if you have never seen a mopar with a broken torsion bar, trust me you never want to.
 
go to www.espo.com nice site looks to be a mom and pop operation , lot's of good parts and tools for working on your vehicle and the price i think is good. t-bar tool $30.00 don't seem to be too bad.i still need the size for k frame bolts and socket size . thanks ron
 
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