removing 225 /6 from Auto Trans.

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RJG

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Hello FABO,
I am pulling the engine out of my '63 Valiant, leaving the automatic trans in the car. Someone suggested that I had to remove the bolts holding the fly wheel to the engine. But shouldn't the fly wheel and torque converter slide right off the transmission spline with the engine?
Maybe he was confusing with a manual trans?
Thank you,
R
 
NEVER pull the converter with the motor or you will very likely screw something up.
Plus it's a real ***** to try and put back that way (again, probably break something doing that as well)
You want to separate the converter from the flex plate (flywheel) and push it back farther into the trans.
There are 4 short bolts that connect the flex plate and converter.
Once those are out you can remove the motor leaving the converter in the bellhousing.

I put a tiedown strap across the torsion bars to support the trans between the bell and pan.
 
NEVER pull the converter with the motor or you will very likely screw something up.
Plus it's a real ***** to try and put back that way (again, probably break something doing that as well)
You want to separate the converter from the flex plate (flywheel) and push it back farther into the trans.
There are 4 short bolts that connect the flex plate and converter.
Once those are out you can remove the motor leaving the converter in the bellhousing.

I put a tiedown strap across the torsion bars to support the trans between the bell and pan.

Thank you for that. The piston rod broke, engine is seized and I can't turn the crank to get to the other 2 bolts on the flywheel. Can't get the oil pan off (to free up broken rod) without dropping steering linkage. But I hear what you are saying, so I will do what I have to.
Thanks again.
 
Thank you for that. The piston rod broke, engine is seized and I can't turn the crank to get to the other 2 bolts on the flywheel. Can't get the oil pan off (to free up broken rod) without dropping steering linkage. But I hear what you are saying, so I will do what I have to.
Thanks again.
If you can get the engine to slide forward far enough, you can probably do what you suggest. Might be easier just to pull the trans as well? Good opportunity to give it a clean and filter, change shaft seals etc.....
 
If you can get the engine to slide forward far enough, you can probably do what you suggest. Might be easier just to pull the trans as well? Good opportunity to give it a clean and filter, change shaft seals etc.....

Or pull the trans off the converter first, then pull the motor with the converter on it.
The trans being lighter might make damaging the converter or pump less of a possibility.
 
If you can get the engine to slide forward far enough, you can probably do what you suggest. Might be easier just to pull the trans as well? Good opportunity to give it a clean and filter, change shaft seals etc.....

Good point regarding clearance. Limited space up front would ad to the potential for damaging something. I am not sure how many inches needed to clear the converter from the spline.
 
When i pulled the 225 motor and trans out of my duster, i turned the motor over so i could undo the converter bolts, undid all the top side stuff after that, then dropped the transmission and converter together out the bottom, and pulled the motor out the top. No fuss no muss.
 
pulled /6 outta my truck last summer and left the trans, put another /6 back in and liked to never got that leaning tower to line up and get bell housing bolts started! swore right then if ever pulling /6 with plans of reinstalling /6 id pull both motor and trans together!!!
 
When i pulled the 225 motor and trans out of my duster, i turned the motor over so i could undo the converter bolts, undid all the top side stuff after that, then dropped the transmission and converter together out the bottom, and pulled the motor out the top. No fuss no muss.
The issue with the OP was his engine is seized. He cant rotate to remove TQ bolts
 
At least you have to take out through the passenger door :wtf:

Hoopty1.jpg
 
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