Removing surface rust from crank

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Bobzilla said:
The 2.82 number is is their rough measurement of the main diameter and the 2.13 is their rough measurement of the rod journals.

From your rough measurements it does appear to be a 4 inch stroke crankshaft.
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Since you have all the answers right now I have another question.

My block says 4.010 + .01 but the box says 360 block .030 over and the KB190 +.030 pistons fit in the cylinder (no rings on them). Does this mean the cylinder walls are actually .030 over? I’ll verify in a couple days when my micrometer and digital caliper show up as well.

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DentalDart said:
Since you have all the answers right now I have another question.

My block says 4.010 + .01 but the box says 360 block .030 over and the KB190 +.030 pistons fit in the cylinder (no rings on them). Does this mean the cylinder walls are actually .030 over? I’ll verify in a couple days when my micrometer and digital caliper show up as well.

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This one will be just a wild guess. Maybe the block was originally getting bored and honed to 4.02 inch diameter. In that case the numbers kind of make sense. But for some unknown reason it is now at 4.03 bore since those 4.03 bore pistons fit in the holes.
 
Or, they could be kb hypereutectic pistons for a 4" stroke as originally suspected, but into a piston box he had laying around.
You won't know until you get get your tools and start measuring
 
Evaporous gel best product on the market...even navel jelly would work...Will flash almost instantly....oil when done
 
DentalDart said:
Since you have all the answers right now I have another question.

My block says 4.010 + .01 but the box says 360 block .030 over and the KB190 +.030 pistons fit in the cylinder (no rings on them). Does this mean the cylinder walls are actually .030 over? I’ll verify in a couple days when my micrometer and digital caliper show up as well.

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It looks like whoever took the measurements used a caliper.

If that bore is .010 at the top it needs to be bored.

And if it is .010 over at the top, it’s probably because someone used a ridge reamer on the top of the bore.

You can buy a nice set of micrometers and a nice dial bore gauge for very little money.

It seems like it’s time to invest in accurate measuring tools.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
It looks like whoever took the measurements used a caliper.

If that bore is .010 at the top it needs to be bored.

And if it is .010 over at the top, it’s probably because someone used a ridge reamer on the top of the bore.

You can buy a nice set of micrometers and a nice dial bore gauge for very little money.

It seems like it’s time to invest in accurate measuring tools.
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electronic or mechanical work better for a bore gauge.

I already ordered micrometer and caliper.

By the time I get to start knowing or doing anything I’ll of already spent 500 in tools. Lol

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DentalDart said:
electronic or mechanical work better for a bore gauge.

I already ordered micrometer and caliper.

By the time I get to start knowing or doing anything I’ll of already spent 500 in tools. Lol

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I avoid digital. But, I learned on analog when I was 14 so it’s what I like.

If you like digital then that’s what you should use.

Either way, you’ll have a dial bore gauge and thats what matters.
 

Ok. So cheap caliper and pistons are saying it’s .030 over, which I’ll verify again with my bore gauge when it comes in. This is on 3 different cylinders.

@junkyardhero sorry I was late on those pistons but I had to make sure the block was the right size before buying anything.

I also got some 800-1500-2k grit sandpaper and will use this method to polish the crank. Thanks everyone!



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