Removing swage wheel studs- Plan "B"

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draginmopars

draginmopars

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Wanting to install longer wheel studs for the Centerline wheels

got a drill press
sawzall
round nose punch and
a HAMMER

plan "B"

used the old lug nuts to locate the center of the stud
by using a drill bit that just fits inside the lug nut

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used a 5/16" bit
after drilling to just below the drum height
I cut the studs off
( didn't want to spend all day drilling)

The pilot hole is still there (reason for drilling deep enough)

next was to use a 7/16" drill bit to drill just to the depth/edge of the drum

support the back side
grab the punch and hammer
out they come

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You don't need to do all that drilling. Just support the hub underneath & Smack them with a hammer. I used a large enough socket to clear the stud head & a brass BFH to do the job.
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
You don't need to do all that drilling. Just support the hub underneath & Smack them with a hammer. I used a large enough socket to clear the stud head & a brass BFH to do the job.
Click to expand...



Thats how you end up with 2 worthless hubs. I know this because a machine shop did this for me about 20 years ago and then wondered why the new studs did not fit the holes.

Brian
 
bcschief said:
Thats how you end up with 2 worthless hubs. I know this because a machine shop did this for me about 20 years ago and then wondered why the new studs did not fit the holes.

Brian
Click to expand...

X 2

on DRUM brakes



had a friend going to help me

gave him my Satellite drums

Brought them back bent to hell

Couldn't get the studs out.....
 
Never hurt mine. I guess if you're too aggressive & not patient it could happen. Mine really didn't take that much to get them out. But I was only putting stock studs back in, maybe that made a difference?
 
If you put a deep socket on inside of drum to barely fit around stud flange, they will come right out. A press helps also. Been doing them this way on all cars for 40 years.
 
if you ever have to do it again just flip them baby's over and drill the head off from the back. then just knock them out forwards. it won't hurt the hubs at all and is a lot easier then beating :violent1:the heck out of it and maybe bending it or enlarging the holes.
I do know that if sometime in the past yours had been replaced they probably were NOT re-swedged then you could beat the heck out of them and out they'd come. since you already might have enlarged stud holes.


BUT if you beat or press them out (the swedged ones that is) from the front to the back you WILL enlarge the holes slightly due to the swedged part of the stuff being forced back through the hole. You wouldn't believe how many hubs I had to do in the dealership on new (1 year old or less) from tire shops not being used to the left handed threads on our mopars and snapping them off, not just one either some were all 5:banghead:.(yeah even back then they screwed up tire changing)
Then when they replaced them the studs just turned in the holes and they had to tack weld the studs in. I got really good at grinding tack welds off from 1964 -67on the left threaded side hub and drum .
View attachment dart pic's 064.jpg


I know that you drilled yours from the front to the back and when you did that you made a hole that the metal of the swedge folded into. your way worked but it,s just way more work than doing it the back way and I'm LAZY for sure just ask my wife.
it took about 2 minutes per stud total since I pilot drilled the center using a 1/8 bit down about 1/4 inch, then went to 1/2 to finish up the top end removal. you only have to drill to the shank or the hub surface. then when you do the 1/2 inch it just goes down to the hub surface. top pops right off after that.
 
66Dvert said:
if you ever have to do it again just flip them baby's over and drill the head off from the back. then just knock them out forwards. it won't hurt the hubs at all
Click to expand...

Thanks
I knew there was an easier way :D

Now thinking about it,that's the way to go..
 
I also had the experience of enlarging the hole in the flange from pressing them out.after. that i tried cutting them off and drilling them out with a slightly under sized drill bit witch relieved the grip and then they nocked out easily with no harm
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
You don't need to do all that drilling. Just support the hub underneath & Smack them with a hammer. I used a large enough socket to clear the stud head & a brass BFH to do the job.
Click to expand...

That's the most incorrect way ever. If you drive the studs out without either cutting the swaged part off, or drilling the hole as noted here, the swaged part of the stud will enlarge the stud holes making the hub scrap metal. This method outlined here works, but I prefer using a 5/8" metal cutting hole saw. Fits right over the stud and cuts the swaged area right off, releasing the drum and allowing you to drive the stud out without damage to the hub. If you've just beaten the studs out and have been able to replace them where they stay in place, trust me, you just got lucky.
 
This thread just brought back 35 year old memories of learning the hard way about swedged studs on my dart. I ended up having to buy a new drum. Was using a torch and hammer. Drum didn't look very straight when I got them out.
I was trying to change out the left handers for right hand thread studs because all I could find for cragar lugs were right hand thread. Had to have the cragars on there being still in my teens at the time.
Fun days they were working on my first swinger even when I was tearing stuff up.
 
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