replace nitrous bottle o-ring

[65TerrorCuda]

Is it possible to replace the stem o-ring on an older nitrous bottle, Holley NOS Sniper 10#, with a partially full bottle?

https://www.holley.com/products/nit...JTVFGOZsaXU7DhBfdl-6PkE9N3ungQAnKeXv5z-iVcisI

It leaks when I try to crack open the valve and shoots straight up the handle and freezes my little fingers. Even with gloves on.

It looks similar to the old style faucet shut off with a packing nut, and those I've replaced without shutting off the house water supply.

I'd rather not dump 8# of nitrous if I don't have to

 

[jaws]

Pic of the valve? Should be a waxy type of packing around the stem. With the valve closed can you unscrew the had wheel and tighten the packing nut? A welding supply fill plant might be able to replace the packing if need be.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

 

[340six]

Might be the same as a C02 bottle. Places that fill them might have a gasket

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Pic of the valve? Should be a waxy type of packing around the stem. With the valve closed can you unscrew the had wheel and tighten the packing nut? A welding supply fill plant might be able to replace the packing if need be.

That's my question, should I loosen that handle nut? I see the nut below the handle but that one worries me a bit. Nitrous is dang cold.

Might be the same as a C02 bottle. Places that fill them might have a gasket

I talked to the local nitrous shop and they just said to dump the nitrous and put a new valve in. Only if I have to. This is vintage nitrous lol

 

[67Dart273]

Do you have fittings that you can transfer it to another bottle? Do you know how? The basics are, get proper fittings and hose, a second bottle that "will work," and is adequate capacity.

Make sure the spare bottle is clean, IE has not had other chemicals in, and has not been left with valve open. Any question, evacuate it, round up a guy (like me, LOL) who used to work on HVAC and has a vacuum pump.

If the bottle is known clean, no need to evacuate it. Put the spare in a freezer, then connect the two up. you want liquid out of the leaker, whichever orientation that is, upright?

You want the source (leaker) tank warm. The spare as cold as you can get it.

You want to bleed the hose. With the hose connected, and both valves closed, just barely crack the leaker, crack the hose fitting on the spare tank, then tighten. Now open the spare tank valve, and try to keep it "low", lower than the leaker. Open both valves and let them sit. If you have a scale, you can weigh one or t' other to see if you have stopped transferring.

If you think there is still material remaining in the leaker, re-cool the spare, and repeat.

Make sure you know you are not overfilling the spare tank.
Not sure I would mess with the valve myself. Specially on a composite tank. Figuring a way to hold it without damage might be interesting.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Do you have fittings that you can transfer it to another bottle? Do you know how? The basics are, get proper fittings and hose, a second bottle that "will work," and is adequate capacity.

Make sure the spare bottle is clean, IE has not had other chemicals in, and has not been left with valve open. Any question, evacuate it, round up a guy (like me, LOL) who used to work on HVAC and has a vacuum pump.

If the bottle is known clean, no need to evacuate it. Put the spare in a freezer, then connect the two up. you want liquid out of the leaker, whichever orientation that is, upright?

You want the source (leaker) tank warm. The spare as cold as you can get it.

You want to bleed the hose. With the hose connected, and both valves closed, just barely crack the leaker, crack the hose fitting on the spare tank, then tighten. Now open the spare tank valve, and try to keep it "low", lower than the leaker. Open both valves and let them sit. If you have a scale, you can weigh one or t' other to see if you have stopped transferring.

If you think there is still material remaining in the leaker, re-cool the spare, and repeat.

Make sure you know you are not overfilling the spare tank.
Not sure I would mess with the valve myself. Specially on a composite tank. Figuring a way to hold it without damage might be interesting.

That's pretty involved alright. Just cracking the leaker for an instant, less than 1/4 turn, resulted in a garage full of nitrous and a freezing cold bottle. It slowly shut off even with the valve tightly closed. Nothing attached to the bottle.

Maybe I'll hit up the local speed shops, somebody must want free nitrous. Or not lol.

It's an alloy bottle but this is sounding like more trouble than it's worth.

 

[jaws]

That's my question, should I loosen that handle nut? I see the nut below the handle but that one worries me a bit. Nitrous is dang cold.


I talked to the local nitrous shop and they just said to dump the nitrous and put a new valve in. Only if I have to. This is vintage nitrous lol

Unscrew that nut and tighten that nut a little. As long as the valve is closed it won’t leak. Just don’t crank on it to hard, shouldn’t take much.