Rich idle, would this help?

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Well I am sorry but that power valve has a tun of affect on idle ,if its blown or rared wrong its going to screw all ,prove me wrong as what outhers have said.:protest:
 
pntastar69 said:
For all of you "know it all" carb experts.

http://forums.holley.com/entry.php?430-Holley-Power-Valve-Tuning
Click to expand...

If anyone is serious about learning how to tune your Holley.

I Found some real good stuff on Holley carb tuning. Get out your study cap and reading glasses if anyone is interested.

I myself am in the process of doing these things to my 850 DP. I ordered all the plugs, drill sets & Taps etc to make this happen.

Most will pass by this information and live with their issues. The Die Hards will take it to heart and go for it. I am using a wide band. If you do not have one. Spring for one. A UEGO by AEM only cost about $200.00

http://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...t-level-holley-tuning-serious-ocd-tuners.html

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490296
 
My car has ~8 in of vacuum at idle and has a 10.5 power valve in it. No rich condition at idle. How can that be?

I've setup lots of cars with PV's with opening point above the observed vacuum.

If the engine is set up properly, the PV will have no effect at idle. A PV that is ruptured so it leaks fluid though the PV itself, may introduce fuel to the engine through the vacuum port where the blow out protection is located.

PV plugs come in very handy to prove that vacuum levels at idle aren't an issue when the rest of the systems are set up properly. If the carb is running off the main circuit at idle, you got otrher issues to deal with.
 
Subscribed :I don't have a Vac setup to test that way yet , I will by the end of the weekend however because I have been chasing my tail with this very problem , backed the car out of the garage and it flooded itself out , we setup the carb , ended up 1 turn on the mixture screws and got the butterflies closed and the idle sort of stable at 700 rpm , car would idle down at the light and start to stumble if kept in gear , would not cruise at 1200-1600 rpm had to be either on the gas or off , diagnosis vac problem probably blown power valve , fast kit and reduced from 6.5 to 3.5 , retorqued intake , car runs , cruises at low rpm but accelerates much slower , diagnosis to small a power valve doh , still had a knock inside , replaced perma torque intake gaskets with proper gaskets for RPM , no more knocks or ticks , car starts a little better plugs are cleaner but haven't had a chance to really drive her yet since she is now low on fuel from tuning and won't make it to the nearest station that sells ethanol free 94 , tomorrow is test run day and I expect the plugs will stay good , but I will need that vac gauge setup to get the right power valve , my first recommendation to the OP would be re-torque your intake and if you are running those blue felpro gaskets with a non stock intake then get rid of them .
 
I tweeked this carb to death. I checked the vacuum in gear. Changed the power valves as needed. I checked for vacuum leaks. Nothing found. I did put permatorque gaskets on over the winter. The old gaskets were permatorque also. After all the comments on low vacuum maybe thicker intake gaskets are in order even though I'm not finding any leaks . I found a pretty informative site for troubleshooting with a vacuum gage. Might be old news to you guys but it's new to me. All I ever looked for was a reading.
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/tools/vacgauge.html
Once I rule out a vacuum leak once and for all I'll go back and revisit the carb issues.
 
PA Dodger said:
I tweeked this carb to death. I checked the vacuum in gear. Changed the power valves as needed. I checked for vacuum leaks. Nothing found. I did put permatorque gaskets on over the winter. The old gaskets were permatorque also. After all the comments on low vacuum maybe thicker intake gaskets are in order even though I'm not finding any leaks . I found a pretty informative site for troubleshooting with a vacuum gage. Might be old news to you guys but it's new to me. All I ever looked for was a reading.
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/tools/vacgauge.html
Once I rule out a vacuum leak once and for all I'll go back and revisit the carb issues.
Click to expand...

See the links in post 28 and read them!
 
Mad Dart/Cannucky-I read the links. The problems and fixes seem like what I need but they are using the billet metering blocks. In the original post on YellowBullet the OP talks about going back to the "old style" metering block, like mine. Mine are cast and I don't see how it could be modded as recommended in the links. MD, are you doing these mods to a HP or standard DP?
 
The blocks don't matter. The mods they are doing are bringing the billet blocks as close to the stock old style blocks as possible.

I've got an Old 850 DP. If you read the thread a couple times you will see that those pros mention there is absolutly no advantage using a billet block over a factory block. Lol , the after market sell foo foo parts to make $$ is the deal!

As far as modding the factory blocks yes you can. I just ordered all the stuff to do just that. Drills, Taps, brass plugs, pin gauges & pin vice drill set.

If you want KMJ performance sells blocks ready and tapped for 44$, you would still need to drill and tap the main body for the idle and main air bleeds.
 
Adjustable blocks.... I bought a set of these today so I can see what they look like.

[ame]http://m.ebay.com/itm/380703853241?nav=SEARCH[/ame]
 
I didn't mod mine I just read everything then opened my secondaries just a little like 1/8-1/4 turn to let a little air in and backed off the curb idle , it now idles much better the curb is only about 1/3 of a turn open , and the plugs look the same as they did after I wire brushed them , no carbon and now flecks or glazing just like in the pic in the LS link .
 
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