Rocker ball stud protrusion

[Dezduster]

Quick description
360 block decked to 9.600, .040 felpro blues, Indy rhs X heads by Brian at IMM, Hughes 1.6 rockers, Hughes retro hydraulic rollers lifters 5321 and Hughes HER2836ALN-10 cam.

Following Hughes instructions checked the sweep that looks great with no shims, it sweeps from 2mm from intake edge of valve through center to 4mm towards exhaust side. I tried a .040 shim and that started the sweep in the center of the valve. I will likely try the .020 shims to see if it will sweep the center 2mm of the valve tomorrow morning.

Adjusted the checking lifter to 2.160 which is the operating length I came up with, with 3 turns in on retro roller 2.160 is my best figure with calipers and micrometer. Set my rocker ball stud protrusion to the .320 figure as recommended and adjusted pushrod to take up slack. Do a lift check and .532 supposed to be 544. I follow the directions and adjust the push rod shorter and extend rocker ball stud again and again and yet again. So I finally get my .543 lift but the ball stud is protruding .520 and like 5 threads out of the bottom.
So where the bleeping bleep did I bleep up. Surely running the ball stud out like that will break the stud. If I go the other way I loose lift.

 

[Abodybomber]

pictures, of the sweep?....

 

[Dezduster]

Intake side on the top. Starts on the top sweeps to the bottom side. Sorry for the bad pic.

 

[fishy68]

Small block LA Chryslers have one inherent flaw. The angle of the pushrod to the lifter to the rocker arm (3 compound angles) causes some lift loss. It is perfectly normal to see .020" lift loss with your cam size so IMO you did real good when you got .532" out of it. If the lifter, pushrod, and rocker arm ball were in perfect alignment you'd get the full amount of lift no problem.

 

[Dezduster]

Yes the angles add up or well subtract from lift.
Butt I can get all the lift at the expense of rocker ball stud protrusion.
Hughes says that .400 is max for a solid roller but this is a hyd roller, no max or suggestion is given.
So should I order shorter push rods and run the adjusting screw out or should I order longer push rods and sacrifice lift.
If the best geometry will get the most lift then .520 of protrusion is technically the most efficient and best which should be easier on valve train.

 

[OldmanRick]

Small block LA Chryslers have one inherent flaw. The angle of the pushrod to the lifter to the rocker arm (3 compound angles) causes some lift loss. It is perfectly normal to see .020" lift loss with your cam size so IMO you did real good when you got .532" out of it. If the lifter, pushrod, and rocker arm ball were in perfect alignment you'd get the full amount of lift no problem.

What fishy said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

The stock geometry will not give you paper lift numbers. His last sentence was meant as if it was a perfect world.... Which it's not...

Your pic where you had it looks great. I'd go back to that. I think I understood correctly that the adjusters were in a good spot at that point as well. A few hundredths lift won't make a huge difference on anything other then a max effort build, so I'd be comfortable with the sweep you originally had.

 

[Dezduster]

Thank you for replies.