rod bearing

[busted knuckles]

I need to replace a rod bearing in my 225. I took it apart to check for a spun bearing, the top half of the bearing moved when I replaced it and tightened it down, I squished the tab that keeps it from turning in the process. I have never fit a bearing before. Will I have to possibly file the end of the bearing to get the correct clearance? Also, will I need to replace with same brand of bearing? This was stamped on the back ACL 020 4601 30JL99

 

[340mopar]

I would replace the bearing, it looks like it is a .020 undersize bearing by the numbers. The bearing doesn't have to be the same manufacturer. You can also buy just one, you don't have to buy a set. How do they all look? now that it is apart you could put in a full set it wouldn't cost much more.


Chuck

 

[busted knuckles]

Thanks for the info. They all look brand new. The engine only has about 10-15k on it.

 

[speedyvision]

i just wonder how many people here have put bearings in while the engine was still in the car?
...yes, it can be done...yup, main bearings too!
how? (u say?)
verrrry carefully.
i learned it from an old mechanic, back from the early days before tri-metal bearings when they wore out and needed replacing much more frequently!
he also taught me that an iron nail and a corncob can be a sparkplug on a Model T...yet i degress

 

[busted knuckles]

Yes, this is being done while the engine is in the car. Not fun, but nice to know I can do it.

 

[66dartman]

We do a lot of "in frame" overhauls on diesel engines. Usually, when the engine only has about 10,000 hours or so on it, you can replace all the liners/pistons, rod bearings and mains, as long as the crank looks good. Much cheaper/easier than pulling the engine out, especially when they build the truck around the engine!