"Carefully" means you should use a one-handed hammer.In the book, it says to “carefully“ remove the pin. I don’t see any way other than take a hammer and a punch and beat it out. Does anyone know of another way or tool?
Drill bits are hardened and will shatter if hit with a hammer. Probably shouldn’t use drill bits as punches.An old 3/16 drill bit works. I nested it in a socket on a long extension so I could get a decent hit with a hammer. Definitely some PB Blaster a day or 2 before
Not always..it worked!Drill bits are hardened and will shatter if hit with a hammer. Probably shouldn’t use drill bits as punches.
I can see it working. It’s just not a great recommendation. I hit a hammer with a hammer once, shattered a piece off of one and it ended up 1-1/2” into my bicep. Those chunks come off sharp and go through flesh with ease. A drill bit (while you may get lucky) should not be used as a punch.Not always..it worked!
Nice! I love homemade specialty tools.In 1979, before I knew of roll pin punches, and after using other means to remove these roll pins, including a pushrod, I wanted something that would fit securely and could be hammered easily and solidly to remove a pin quickly without hassle, and without too much pounding stress on the steering gear input shaft.
To achieve this for removing, or installing, the roll pin from the steering column coupler, without distortion of the pin or tool slippage, I modified an old #3 Philips screwdriver. I ground down a section to be slightly smaller than the pin outer diameter with a step further ground down on the end. The end step allows the tool to fit in the pin without slipping. The other step is big enough to fit the pin diameter, but small enough to slide into the pin hole without sticking.
The screwdriver is an old inexpensive Buffalo Tools brand with a wooden handle, but with the full metal shank continued inside and a metal knob on the upper end, so it can be hammered. like a punch or drift. I've taped up the handle for a better grip and the wood was beginning to split from age.
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For the original pin I used a 3-pound hammer. Still, it took many serious whacks.There probably is a C clam type tool to do it but I've always used a small punch and small ballpean hammer and tapped them out. Depending on rust and crud build up, you might soak it in lube to help is come out.
Maybe I wasn’t clear, but I’m doing this in the car. There’s no way to support the coupling so I’m beating against the worm gear bearing. That works but I know it’s not good for the bearing.The NE rust belt guys should clean and soak it first.
Hammer and punch is the ticket.
Don't hammer on drill bits guys, and don't tell other people to do it either.