Roll pin in steering coupling

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Tool.Man

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In the book, it says to “carefully“ remove the pin. I don’t see any way other than take a hammer and a punch and beat it out. Does anyone know of another way or tool?
 
There probably is a C clam type tool to do it but I've always used a small punch and small ballpean hammer and tapped them out. Depending on rust and crud build up, you might soak it in lube to help is come out.
 
PB blaster for a day. A little heat on the outside of the coupling, without melting the grease. Punch and hammer.
 
In the book, it says to “carefully“ remove the pin. I don’t see any way other than take a hammer and a punch and beat it out. Does anyone know of another way or tool?
"Carefully" means you should use a one-handed hammer.
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You need a roll pin punch the appropriate size. Roll pin punches have a positive dimple on the end that helps support the pin wall when you strike it for removal.
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An old 3/16 drill bit works. I nested it in a socket on a long extension so I could get a decent hit with a hammer. Definitely some PB Blaster a day or 2 before
 
An old 3/16 drill bit works. I nested it in a socket on a long extension so I could get a decent hit with a hammer. Definitely some PB Blaster a day or 2 before
Drill bits are hardened and will shatter if hit with a hammer. Probably shouldn’t use drill bits as punches.
 
Are we talking about the solid pin? I never did get mine out. I pulled the column and removed the steering shaft so I could replace the lower bearing/seal.
 
I ground the threads off a 2.5" 1/4" shouldered bolt.

Worked perfect.
 
Pin is 5/16, so something just smaller. Be aware that there is a counter bore step that is larger, don't be banging on that like many have done and said it wouldn't come out!
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Not always..it worked!
I can see it working. It’s just not a great recommendation. I hit a hammer with a hammer once, shattered a piece off of one and it ended up 1-1/2” into my bicep. Those chunks come off sharp and go through flesh with ease. A drill bit (while you may get lucky) should not be used as a punch.
 
The NE rust belt guys should clean and soak it first.

Hammer and punch is the ticket.

Don't hammer on drill bits guys, and don't tell other people to do it either.
 
Picture I supplied above^^^that's just a piece of a cheap election sign hoop ~ 1/4".
 
In 1979, before I knew of roll pin punches, and after using other means to remove these roll pins, including a pushrod, I wanted something that would fit securely and could be hammered easily and solidly to remove a pin quickly without hassle, and without too much pounding stress on the steering gear input shaft.

To achieve this for removing, or installing, the roll pin from the steering column coupler, without distortion of the pin or tool slippage, I modified an old #3 Philips screwdriver. I ground down a section to be slightly smaller than the pin outer diameter with a step further ground down on the end. The end step allows the tool to fit in the pin without slipping. The other step is big enough to fit the pin diameter, but small enough to slide into the pin hole without sticking.

The screwdriver is an old inexpensive Buffalo Tools brand with a wooden handle, but with the full metal shank continued inside and a metal knob on the upper end, so it can be hammered. like a punch or drift. I've taped up the handle for a better grip and the wood was beginning to split from age.


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Make a good tool or just buy a roll pin punch kit as RRR described in post #5 from Amazon for $14. Either way, having the right tool makes the job a lot easier.

I like tools. There was a time in my life when I didn't have very many, now I have so many I can't remember what some of them are for.
 
Ten ways to skin a cat.... I found the 20" piece of election sign hoop worked the easiest and I've done plenty of them. I like tools myself, 5 roller cabinets full at the present time and kids still buy me tools for Christmas and Father's day every year.. lol
 
In 1979, before I knew of roll pin punches, and after using other means to remove these roll pins, including a pushrod, I wanted something that would fit securely and could be hammered easily and solidly to remove a pin quickly without hassle, and without too much pounding stress on the steering gear input shaft.

To achieve this for removing, or installing, the roll pin from the steering column coupler, without distortion of the pin or tool slippage, I modified an old #3 Philips screwdriver. I ground down a section to be slightly smaller than the pin outer diameter with a step further ground down on the end. The end step allows the tool to fit in the pin without slipping. The other step is big enough to fit the pin diameter, but small enough to slide into the pin hole without sticking.

The screwdriver is an old inexpensive Buffalo Tools brand with a wooden handle, but with the full metal shank continued inside and a metal knob on the upper end, so it can be hammered. like a punch or drift. I've taped up the handle for a better grip and the wood was beginning to split from age.


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Nice! I love homemade specialty tools.
 
There probably is a C clam type tool to do it but I've always used a small punch and small ballpean hammer and tapped them out. Depending on rust and crud build up, you might soak it in lube to help is come out.
For the original pin I used a 3-pound hammer. Still, it took many serious whacks.

There is no tool. Not even a Dodge specialty. So, I’ve designed one and am in the process of making it.
 
The NE rust belt guys should clean and soak it first.

Hammer and punch is the ticket.

Don't hammer on drill bits guys, and don't tell other people to do it either.
Maybe I wasn’t clear, but I’m doing this in the car. There’s no way to support the coupling so I’m beating against the worm gear bearing. That works but I know it’s not good for the bearing.
 
Mine took two hits to come out.

How many hits have you taken?
 
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