Roller Cam Grinding Found This...............

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With that gear and stall in a '65 Val, I'd be pretty surprised if it didn't go in the 12s...but, powertrain is only about a third of making good times-but you knew that ;)

That sucker does sound pretty good though
 
Pulley system? Did you go with V Belt or Serpentine set up,Mechanical fuel pump or Electrical ?? How much was the re grind$$$$$
I still have to figure out Harmonic Balancer and Flex Plate.. etc ....etc ...
And i really appreciate your help...........

Thanks........................................ PETE ................................
 
Pete,
Forgot to answer your other questions. Sorry
There's a lot of gotchas with the Magnums. I'm still learning as I go.

1.) Regrind cost. $117.00 plus shipping which came out to about $130-150. Talk to Ken. That is the guy that spec'd out the cam for me based on my build. Super nice guy and very knowledgeable. Cam is good to about 5800-6000 as I recall which is a safe upper RPM range for a stock bottom end magnum from what I've read.
2.) I kept the cam grind to the listed specs. Didn't change anything. 112 lobe separation.
3.) LA style timing cover, later alum water pump, V-belt setup. Still trying to secure pulleys. That's a big PITA.
4.) 727 out back. I bought the B&M flexplate that is weighted for Magnum 5.9. The factory flexplate should bolt up to a 904 converter. I've read that you need to enlarge one of the holes to make it mate up with an after market converter.
5.) Balancer- Professional Products with interchangeable weights.
6.) Mechanical fuel pump (stock type)- Bought the bolt on cam fuel pump eccentric from Hughes Engines.
7.) Alternator- I'm going to use one of the smaller Denso styles. I bough the alt bracket kit from Mancini that allows you to use these alts on LA and Magnum engines.
8.) Intake- You'll need something with the Magnum bolt pattern. I bought my heads with the LA bolt pattern to match up with my corresponding RPM Air Gap.

Keep the questions coming and sorry if I missed anything. There are a few pics of my engine in my profile/View Photos.
 
Okay here we go! Valve train Question any special valve springs push rod length #
that was recommended for this cam????????????
give me a sec i'll think of more...........

Thanks.................................... PETE ..............
 
If I may be so bold: Pete, as far as the pushrod length, this is kind of a loaded question. I would suspect that with a reground cam, they'll take off somewhere between .020"-0.060" off the base circle of the cam, which by most standards would require longer pushrods, unless you like non-existent lifter preload and a noisy valvetrain sans solid cam.

...that being said, any engine you assemble really deserves the due diligence and scrutiny of measuring for proper pushrod length and valvetrain geometry regardless of the sum of the parts going into it.

Case in point: A very good friend of mine built a Ford 302, .030" over, stock deck height, stock type head gaskets, bought Edelbrock RPM heads that supposedly don't require different length pushrods...long story short, due diligence was not paid to details and despite outward appearance of proper geometry, the engine started consuming oil within 5k miles and was subsequently torn back down to discover the valve stems worn out of spec due to bad geometry...yes, we checked after the fact. He wound op buying custom length pushrods that were about .065" longer than stock and never had another days trouble with it.

Now, before the armchair quarterbacking begins, I'll confess to being more of an engine assembler than a builder, as is my friend, Paul. Also, the Ford moniker has zero to do with the fact that aforementioned scrutiny would've saved a few hundred dollars in replaced parts/gaskets, machine work, and a weeks wait from the machine shop.

I'll close with an apology for replication if this was/is something you already knew or planned on...
 

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