Rolling Duster Rear Fenders?

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Looks good to me. I just tapped mine in with a hammer. Just worke it back and forth slowly rolling it back untill it is up and flush with the inner fender.
 
Thanks for the reply, Burnt. Did you do thid on a Duster?

Do I need to worry about cracking or chipping the paint? What about just cutting off the excess?
 
I did it on a Dart. But it will be about the same on a Duster. Yes you have to worry about the paint. Sorry I should of said that. I did not have to though, My paint is all ready jacked up bad. I think there is somthing that you could put on the paint to keep it from cracking. I think you brush it on the paint. I am pretty shur you can get it from Eastwood.

You can roll it up and leave it or cut off some of the excess.

Here are a few pics of mine. I left it ruff for now but will get in there and make it pretty whene I have it apart to do the resto. I think it is good for about an other 3/4 inch of rubber:-D

P.S. I think Eastwood makes a fender rolling tool as well. I am only doing one car so I could not justify to cost of it (IMOA) but it may help. I don't know about it but mabby some one elce has and could let you know how they liked it?

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We used to use a old wood baseball bat to roll the lip in while rolling the car back and forth. Redneck way seems to work. We would tilt the bat up on the fat end in the space between the fender and the wheel and slowly roll the car and let the bat get pinched between them and slowly in increments roll the lip. Screws up the bat but that's the best use for an old useless one anyway.
 
While it seems like a no brainer, I am concerned about messing up the finish on my car. Below is a pic of the positioning.

I just got the (68 B-Body) 8 3/4 out where I could measure it. It is 61" drum to drum wheel mount location, whereas the 8.25 is 57". So the tire will have to move out 2" each side. At this point, it appears that it won't matter if I roll the lip or not. Only choices are to narrow the rear #-o, or get new wheels all around with a 6" BackSpace on the rear :pale:. $450 verses $1000. Should not have bought the rear end!

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Ya that looks a little close. That realy sucks man. Well on the bright side
this is a good time to get some trick wheels. I looked in the Eastwood catilog today. It said to use a heat gun on the paint so It will not crack.
I don't know what the deal is there. Mabby if it is hot it will bend insted of crack? Good luck.

P.S. Mabby some one here can trade you the B-body rear for an A-body
one. Can anybody help jimmyray out?
 
Problem is, I've only had these wheels for a few months, and I love 'em!

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