68 barracuda - so I replaced bad idler arm and with string measurement/estimate of toe I see wheel on idler side now has significant toe out I'd like to try to correct for now and get a full alignment at shop later. Doing this adjustment is new to me - anyone got any specifics or pics on exactly where to adjust. thnx much for any insight.
rough alignment question
- Thread starter Dave NEO
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j par
Well-hung Member
While that is an option to try and adjust out yourself, I would highly recommend paying the $79 and just having it aligned now.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Tape measure front and back of the tires to set the toe
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Toe plates help a lot. They'll at least get you to a proper alignment shop and are cheaper than a tow in most cases. Toe is adjusted with your tie rods. Just loosen the clamps on them and turn them. Spinning them one way makes them longer and brings the toe for that side in, spin it the other way and it shortens the tie rod and pushes the toe out.
Check your steering wheel make sure it is clocked and locked, before you start with the adjustment sleeves.
ok - so to bring toe in I lengthen the tie rod on that wheel ? thnx
yes, that'll push the back of the spindle out and the front of the wheel in. Once you do it, you'll see how it all works.
Imagine a hunk of 2 x 4 wood laid flat on the driveway that's just about long enough to go from the outside of each of the front tires.
Get a heavy wire coat hanger and cut it into two pieces about 12" long.
Drill 2 holes slightly smaller than the wire diameter into the wood approx at the centerlines of the tires.
Insert the 2 wires into the holes and trim the lengths so they almost reach the center of the tire when the wood is laid flat on the ground. They do not have to reach all the way to the centers, but closer to spindle centerline is better.
Center the steering wheel.
Slide the wood/wire assembly under the car from the side and adjust the location so the wire tips are against the front of the tire treads or just slightly away.
Bend the wires so they line up with one of the tread grooves near the center of each tread.
Carefully pull the wood out from the side of the car without touching the wires against any of the car structure. Sometimes it's easier to pull it out about 6" and rotate the wood downward so the wires are parallel with the ground.
Insert the wood behind the rear of the tires and rotate it up so the wires are near the tread again.
Adjust side-to-side so they line up with the same tread groove you used at the front.
A good target is to make the front dimension about 1/16-1/8" closer than the rear. This is toe-in.
Make your adjustment by rotating the tie rod sleeve.
Remove the apparatus and roll the car forward and back a few feet and check again.
Make sure to tighten the jam nuts against the tie rod end when done.
If done carefully, this is good enough to get to an alignment shop, or further, if all you replaced was a tierod(s).
Get a heavy wire coat hanger and cut it into two pieces about 12" long.
Drill 2 holes slightly smaller than the wire diameter into the wood approx at the centerlines of the tires.
Insert the 2 wires into the holes and trim the lengths so they almost reach the center of the tire when the wood is laid flat on the ground. They do not have to reach all the way to the centers, but closer to spindle centerline is better.
Center the steering wheel.
Slide the wood/wire assembly under the car from the side and adjust the location so the wire tips are against the front of the tire treads or just slightly away.
Bend the wires so they line up with one of the tread grooves near the center of each tread.
Carefully pull the wood out from the side of the car without touching the wires against any of the car structure. Sometimes it's easier to pull it out about 6" and rotate the wood downward so the wires are parallel with the ground.
Insert the wood behind the rear of the tires and rotate it up so the wires are near the tread again.
Adjust side-to-side so they line up with the same tread groove you used at the front.
A good target is to make the front dimension about 1/16-1/8" closer than the rear. This is toe-in.
Make your adjustment by rotating the tie rod sleeve.
Remove the apparatus and roll the car forward and back a few feet and check again.
Make sure to tighten the jam nuts against the tie rod end when done.
If done carefully, this is good enough to get to an alignment shop, or further, if all you replaced was a tierod(s).
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
You better become an expert because most of the phone-zombies at the alignment shops these days sure aren't.
Finished it. Not bad to do. Couple times trial and error to get it dialed in very close to spec. Tracks very well - steering more stable/huge improvement, steering wheel is centered back where it should be. Will probably get other adjustments checked out but sure seems all is good per handling. Still need to check out at higher speeds. Old dog learns new trick....arf.
clifftt
Well-Known Member
Or if there was a slight difference in the tolerance from old to new...
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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