Rough Restart

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edb_app

edb_app

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Well its been months and months since last posting on here. My car has just been doing great this winter. I have been feeding her oil monthly and keeping a fresh fuel filter and finally upgraded to a stock air cleaner. During the summer I rebuilt the carb also.

PROBLEM

Every morning I press the pedal about 3 times before I start her up and let her run for 5 to 10 minutes before taking off. I usually wait till the temp gauge is at its highest point before doing so. Once out on the road everything is fine as long as its warmed up all the way, if not sometimes it will stall. Normal right?

Everytime after I stop somewhere and start her up again it is really rough (almost like the car is not getting enough gas) and I usually have to two foot it just to get it going again without stalling. Im trying to figure out why it does this (its really annoying and dangerous if I get out into traffic and I have a foot on each pedal). If anyone has an idea it would really help. Thanks!
 
my slant has this issue but not quite to a stalling extreme. hot starts it runs rough till i rev it then its fine.

like has been said before about this piss... i mean gas... evaporates in the float bowls. also maybe ur not getting enough fuel, i.e the fuel line is to small or not enough pressure/pump(flow).

what engine/specs, elect or mech fuel pump, stock or upgraded fuel system?
 
edb_app said:
225 Slant 6

no upgrades just stock
Click to expand...

ok well the first thing i would do is make sure that the choke is working properly, then re route the fuel filter behind the alternator to help cool the metal filter down.

and slants can be more than just a little put putt putt motor!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pviXVh2Uaq0

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Here is how our fuel line is now... it goes in front of the alternator, around the front of the engine, then up into a plastic fuel filter and then into the carb.

Side Note!!! That air filter/lawn mower thing is not there any more... she has a real nice stock one!

As far as the choke goes we have been trying to figure that out for months and months! There is no high rev when started... I have to hold down the pedal half way for about 30 sec, then release for it to stay running when cold.

We were told by someone that once we put the pedal down the choke should close and when its warm enough that it should open, but it never does that.

DSC06010.jpg
 
edb_app said:
Here is how our fuel line is now... it goes in front of the alternator, around the front of the engine, then up into a plastic fuel filter and then into the carb.

Side Note!!! That air filter/lawn mower thing is not there any more... she has a real nice stock one!

As far as the choke goes we have been trying to figure that out for months and months! There is no high rev when started... I have to hold down the pedal half way for about 30 sec, then release for it to stay running when cold.

We were told by someone that once we put the pedal down the choke should close and when its warm enough that it should open, but it never does that.
Click to expand...

ok well what i would do is disconect ur choke for a couple of days and just see what i does. ur gonna have to let it warm up and all but if ur hot start issue goes away then u know whats up.

also look at ur cheap plastic filter and whats next to it? i 600F degree cast iron EXHAUST manifold! and then when u shut the motor off it climbs! that plastic filter could melt and that would be bad.

buy new 5/16 steel line from autozone or where ever and make a 90 bend from the fuel pump to right behind the alternator, then use a metal, not glass or plastic, and run it close to the carb or then just run a rubber efi hose.
 
So when you say disconnect the choke just have it loose, so that it is always open?

We will look for the fuel line after we experiment with the choke to see if that is the problem.

Thanks for your help!
 
So i experimented with the choke today (man did it take a long time to warm up!). A couple of times when restarting it was a lot better than normal but other times it was the same old story. Im gonna take your advice about the fuel line and mess around with that next.

I just want to clarify. I need to buy a 5/16 steel fuel line, bend it, attach a metal fuel filter and than a efi hose from that. Have it go from the back of the alternator, over the top of the valve cover and have another 5/16 steel fuel line go from the hose to the carb?

Please let me know if this is the correct set up so I can go gather all these parts this week. Thanks!
 
edb_app said:
So i experimented with the choke today (man did it take a long time to warm up!). A couple of times when restarting it was a lot better than normal but other times it was the same old story. Im gonna take your advice about the fuel line and mess around with that next.

I just want to clarify. I need to buy a 5/16 steel fuel line, bend it, attach a metal fuel filter and than a efi hose from that. Have it go from the back of the alternator, over the top of the valve cover and have another 5/16 steel fuel line go from the hose to the carb?

Please let me know if this is the correct set up so I can go gather all these parts this week. Thanks!
Click to expand...


ok so as far as re routing the fuel filter its 5/16 steel belt at like a 90 with a flare. then use 3 inches or so and attach the filter behind the alt. then fuel line ,rubber,steel,braided, whatever u want works, to the carb.

so back to the hot start issue! so we know that ur issue was effected by the choke but not fixed. so, let me make sure u have most everything up to par before going forth.

  1. make sure the valves are adjusted properly to .020" exh and .010" int
  2. clean/buy a new PCV valve and hose, the hose will crack or collapse and make a vacuum leak or rich condition
  3. get some graphite spray and make sure the "flapper" in the exh manifold is loose and working
  4. reset timing to 8* or so with distributor unplugged and hose plugged
  5. set the screw for idle fuel (cant remember the name! grr) to about 1 1/2 out
  6. set idle to 750 to 900 depending on how it runs with idle adjustment screw
so now it should be running pretty good.:cheers:

some things u should also replace if u havn't or in good shape are cap, rotor, wires, plugs champion single electrode!

so this will give a starting point.

also would check the egr valve on the exh manifold...

pm me for my email and i can send u pics with info

ed
 
ED is right on except I think NGK plugs work better. Dont use rubber line if you EVER plan on taking it to the track. Your only allowed 6-8 inches of EFI rated rubber hose.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
ED is right on except I think NGK plugs work better. Dont use rubber line if you EVER plan on taking it to the track. Your only allowed 6-8 inches of EFI rated rubber hose.
Frank
Click to expand...

yea i never ran the ngk's always champs. agreed on the fuel line
 
12" is correct. Most tracks I visit allow 6-8 inches in the engine compartment before they have a fit. Some tracks dont check. Dont use the plastic fuel filter either, metal only.
 
Thanks everyone for the imput... im positive after following all of your advice, it will be running up to par!
 
If your choke is not closing with a nice crisp snap during a cold start ( car sits over night) and moving the high idle cam, check the bi-metal spring controlling that action. The spring is located at the end of a rod that activates the choke, under a tin cap, in a well in the manifold that is heated by exhaust gasses. When cold the spring forces the rod up, and when the engine is at operating temperature it pull the choke fully open. These springs are known to brake, or get out of adjustment.

A good cleaning of the carburetor would help the high idle cam action. Don’t oil any of the moving parts on your carburetor, as the oil will attract gritty dirt over a few days time, causing everything to gum up, and not move freely. The choke rod and high idle cam need be free, to move. Once these parts are operating properly, adjust your choke so it closes with a firm snap when cold (car sits over night), and pulls back or opens about a quarter inch once the engine starts. This pull-back action is powered by vacuum from the engine over coming that bi-metal spring. As the engine warms, the bi-metal spring will slowly retract the choke until it is fully opened, and at the same time the high idle cam will drop down in steps providing lower idle rpm as the throttle is opened & closed during the course of driving.
 
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