rt durango help please.

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rigrunner

rigrunner
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not an a-body but hoping for a little info please. i have an 01 durango rt 5.9ltr. my flex plate cracked and the shop put in the new plate and now its missing throwing a code for the crank and cam sensor. they replaced both and still same. they are going to pull the trans back out monday and see if they did something wrong but the guy is stumped. i know the flex plate is how the crank sensor reads is their anything i can suggest they look for. thanks in advance. and they are being good about it. taking full responsibility of it and not asking for me to pay for the flex plate job till they get it right.
 
I've got a 99 non r/t. Had the tranny out for rebuild. These vehicles are very sensitive to grounds. The cam position sensor is in the distributor and the crank is pass side towards top of block. I don't have my wiring diagram handy but a lot of the sensors share common grounds. If I remember correctly there are mass grounds at the back of each head. Also there is a possibility they pinched a wire harness sliding the trans back into place. Or maybe if they disconnected any of the harness that a connector had a pin bent or pushed out. Just some quick thoughts on my end.
 
thanks for the suggestions. the said they already checked all the connections and the wiring harness for a pinch. guess ill find out monday when they pull the trans again if they pinched sumn for sure. agrrivating. had to sell my valiant last year due to finances and needed a more familt friendly ride. this thing has been a nightmare so far.:banghead:
 
Here is the diagram from my 99 factory service manual. Don't know if it will help. Both sensors share a ground at the power train control module and the 5volt supply from the PCM. If the 01 is the same, I'd personally check for continuity from the sensors to the PCM ground and also the the 5 volt supply wiring from PCM to each sensor. AGAIN keep in mind this diagram is for a 99. It shouldn't be too hard to run down. As far as the vehicle goes I love my 99. Some of the issues I've dealt with have been brakes. The steel line going to the rear brakes let go right by the gas tank. I totally rebuilt the front end. The recent one at about 150000 miles was tranny. I have also replaced both front wheel hub/bearing assys. The issue with the trannys is that in park and neutral there is no fluid pumped to the overdrive. There are some good shift kits out there that remedy that. The other thing with the magnums is the silly engineers closed the bottom of the intake plenum with a steel plate. The gasket tends to work out and starts pulling oil from the lifter valley. Usually the fuel mileage gets real bad. Yes worse than it already is, and you get valve ping pretty bad at part throttle. This is easy to tell by opening the valve body butterflies and looking in with a light. If you see oil it's leaking more than likely. Keep with it you'll get it.
 

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thanks . ill share this with the shop that has it. hoping he can fix it soon. all i know is it ran fine when i dropped it off and now barely idles. i need my d back fast.
 
update. the flex plate was dented and they somehow poped the dent out. it was near the magnetic pick up. idles and runs now but check engine lite back on and intermediate miss with no power. guy is ordering a new plate and will replace at no cost to me. fingers crossed
 
I think you have one of those mechanics who thinks if it is difficult going back together, it is OK to force it back together.
:violent1:
 
Is this guy Chevy guy using 20 oz ballpeen hammer on it?
 
drove it back to town to drop it off today. check engine light went off but still running like a turd. hope its easy fix.
 
update. new flex plate and its better than ever. so if someone replaces one and cant find the miss check the flex plate.
 
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