Rust! Should I sell it?

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standup303

standup303

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Found rust in the trunk, package tray, back wheel wells. Not excited about it.

All I have done in the past is wire wheel the crap out of it then KBS coat it or Rust Bullet.

Any other tactics you all would recommend?

Should I just sell it? Always a love hate thing with this car, today is a hate day haha.

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Drive it onto Lake Mead..............
 
I get it, on a "hate" day you can see that and say F it.

If you have something else going that you are more excited about maybe put that one on the back burner for a second before deciding to sell.

you might feel different next week.
 
Looks pretty mild. Fix what is real easy & forget it. Being a perfectionist takes the fun out of everything. What does the rest of the car look like?
 
Mike69cuda said:
Looks pretty mild. Fix what is real easy & forget it. Being a perfectionist takes the fun out of everything. What does the rest of the car look like?
Click to expand...
Decent bit of bondo on the car has me kind of nervous but I also wouldn’t mind some patina! It’s a driver and going to stay that way. No rust in other areas that I can see. Does have the front floor boards replaced.
 
What is it?

Year
Model

This is what bothers me more...

The fact that it looks like it had small pocks suggests the future of the car.

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Unless that is all undercoating
 
To me it really depends on how the seams are.

If there is rust pushing out the seams that's a problem

My rescue 67 dart convert has a few bad areas but all in all it's pretty solid.
Pass side top opening
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Up under the pass side top opening
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Pass side forward most seat mount rib
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Pass side floor board
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Behind rear most inner drivers side seat mount
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Driver's side floor board
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The metal is solid enough overall I can stand on it
 
Dana67Dart said:
Is that factory undercoating on the insides of the quarters or did someone e spray undercoating all over the I side of the trunk
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It’s all over the inside of the trunk. Underneath the trunk looks clean and solid except for a few spots
 
If it were me… it would be right back at the dealer for warranty. 70years and 100,000 miles right?


In New England we call that a “clean car.”
 
You east coasters crack me up.

You all would take a part that weighs 1/2 what the original did and say it was rust free. :poke: :realcrazy: :rofl:
 
I have seen and repaired much worse. My question to you (I always ask this) is, "How much of the work can you do yourself"? If you can weld and repair the rust yourself, the repair will be easy and not terribly expensive. If you have to hire out rust repair, it is NOT cheap.
 
That just might be what someone else wants. Sell it and get your 392. Lifes too short.
 
Like many others have said, that looks very minor.

And didn't you JUST drive to Oklahoma to buy this car?? Why didn't you inspect it before handing over the cash?
 
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