swinger340
Well-Known Member
Epoxy primer is great stuff for bear metal.
Sanding floor pans Sucks
- Thread starter iw378
- Start date
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as far as I know those are original factory plates my 68 rag top has them also
iw378
Well-Known Member
Whoever had this car last had some kind of thick rubberized paint in there.
With the wire wheel the heat created just smeared it all over the place like a big booger. Scraping and sanding was a must.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
SEM makes weld through Epoxy primer in a can. Im going to use it on my engine bay.
MrDuster
Well-Known Member
Rusteum...Have had new floor pans welded in twice due to rust over the last 27 years. Last set was painted with rustoleum in '95...it's got my vote. Not familiar with POR. Easy, cheap, do it yourself...
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Isn't that stuff like $35+ a can?? I know there are far better products out there rather than use weld-thru primer and much cheaper. Zinc aids in the prevention of rust but not well enough in my opinion. A catylized epoxy primer would be the best option imo. Once and done, never worry again.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Probably, I dont even own a spray gun though. I figured it would be good enough over the bare metal in my engine compartment.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Harbor Freight or ebay. A $20 HVLP gun works just fine for this kind of work. You can catch a swinging deal on Satajet guns on ebay ocassionally.
My vote is .... Get a HF spray gun, and spray it with "Epoxy Primer", then a good top coat of what ever colour you like. Use what good body shops use. Your local auto paint store can set you up with everything you need. What about the underside,??.
POR 15= overpriced=overrated
barracudadave67
POR 15= overpriced=overrated
barracudadave67
Woods74
Broke Senior
you can also spray Rustoleum out of that HVLP gun using that recipe I posted earlier. The 'satin black' looks like POR-15. I'm doing this right now.
40psi, adjust the fan 9 inces away for a 6 inch pattern. No orange peel.
PS: Next time use some aircraft stripper and put some clear cellophane wrap over it. Much easier.
40psi, adjust the fan 9 inces away for a 6 inch pattern. No orange peel.
PS: Next time use some aircraft stripper and put some clear cellophane wrap over it. Much easier.
crvtec90
Well-Known Member
Por 15 is rock hard stuff! I like it for bumper brackets. Fills up imperfections and wont scrape off. Not very good on nonrusted metal though. The biggest problem I had with it is the solvent popping while curing . Its so humid here in Jacksonville and the por15 likes to harden up too fast. While applying it looks great, but as it dries up u get lots of bubbles in the finish.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Solvent pop is caused by over application and not using the correct flash time between coats. The last coat was applied before the prior coat flashed off therefore sealing that coat and not allowing the solvent to evaporate.
We have the same humidity here bro! Nothing to do with the solvent pop. I know a little about the refinish process ;) , look in my sig.
POR 15 holds up very well if it is applied right, over rust, follow the manufactures instructions.
My jeep frame still looks great after 5 years after using POR15, I cheaped out on the axles and springs and used Rustolem guess what small rust spots are appearing.
So you get what you pay for.
In you case with the floor pan, just brush on the Rustolem and move on with the next project.
My jeep frame still looks great after 5 years after using POR15, I cheaped out on the axles and springs and used Rustolem guess what small rust spots are appearing.
So you get what you pay for.
In you case with the floor pan, just brush on the Rustolem and move on with the next project.
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