Scarebird question...total cost

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Jeem Smeeth

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I have a '63 Dart and am looking at the Scarebird disc swap.....what's the total cost minus new wheels and tires of course? Kit and parts store brake parts etc.... what's the total cost appx? THANKS!
 
I can't answer but why do you say minus new wheels are tires? Do you mean you have 13" wheels now? You can keep SBP with ScareBird, which is one of the advantages of it (assuming wanting to keep SBP is an advantage for someone like it is for me).
 
I'm considering doing a Scarebird conversion as well. From what I've heard and read is that they are very helpful over the phone and by email. I would give them a call on Monday.

From what I understand the entire kit cost under $500 when you buy it from them, a bit cheeper if you buy the parts and do the hole matching yourself.
 
I have a '63 Dart and am looking at the Scarebird disc swap.....what's the total cost minus new wheels and tires of course? Kit and parts store brake parts etc.... what's the total cost appx? THANKS!



the newest design works on 9 or 10 inch spindles just by flipping sides. I'm not sure if they still have the 14 problem size. I have 14 inch rallies on mine but don't remember the width.
You can use your existing spindles. that's what made me choose scarebird in the first place I had the hubs redrilled to 5 on 4.5 since the rotors you order have that bolt pattern drilled originally (or you could redrill the rotors to 5 on4.0 to use the existing tires and rims)this was done(5 on 4.5 drilling hubs) so I could use the new rotors without having to redrill them every time I had to put new rotors on. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other your choice. and I plan on putting a LOT of miles on the car since it'll be my daily driver .

not counting the $40.00 to redrill the Hubs to 5 on 4.5 (or rotors to 5 on 4 if that's the way you go) I did mine for simplicity since the rears had already been redrilled to 5 on 4.5 and didn't want to carry 2 different bolt pattern tires.

I paid 18.00 per caliper(napa)............ ................36.00 you can get at any parts store.
28.00 per rotor.(advanced auto)...........................56.00 "you can get at any parts store.
the adapter plates............................................ 109.00 scarebird
front hoses 19.00 per side(advanced auto)...........38.00 "you can get at any parts store
master cylinder (rock auto)(advanced auto)...........13.00 "you can get at any parts store

proportioning valve (used)...................................5.00 "on this site"
(new ones is 80.00 or an adjustable is cheaper)
1 new brake line 8.00 for MC(advanced auto) .........8.00 "you can get at any parts store
(this rear hose and cylinders is not needed if your just doing fronts. but is nice to get to make sure it's all good.)
rear cylinders 10.50(advanced auto).....................21.00 "you can get at any parts store
rear rubber hose 27.00(advanced auto) ................27.00 "you can get at any parts store


pads non ceramic 13.00(advanced auto)...............13.00 "you can get at any parts store
rear cylinders 10.50(advanced auto).....................21.00 "you can get at any parts store

I'm right about 326.00 for all new. except spindles which are original
ahh forgot the redrilling of the hub that did cost me 40.00 to get them done and 22.50 for 2 inch long 1/2-20 studs.
soooo
326 +40+22.50 = 388.50 was my cost total
Thats for a conversion I can go to any parts store and repair anywhere on any day and not have to wait for parts to be shipped to me(like wildwood's kit) .
for the front only. knock about 50.00 off to skip the rears.
so if you look around and shop parts it could,maybe,might just cost a little less +- 20 bucks than 300 for just the fronts.


oh yeah I forgot to mention that once you get the adapter plates you can get the rest of the stuff at your on pace or budget so 109.00 initial cost(Might have gone up to 115.00)
and the rest as you have money.
 
72Dodge, I said "minus the wheels and tires" because of the infinitely variable costs for wheels and tires. I'm simply looking at the most affordable way to change out my bolt pattern to Ford/Mopar 4.5" on 5. Adapters are out as I don't want to throw the track out another inch on each side.

This car is quite literally just a grocery getter/cruise Central type car.

66Dvert... thank you very much for taking the time to break out the Scarebird cost.

Total appx. cost may be on their site but I definitely missed it if it is.
 
72Dodge, I said "minus the wheels and tires" because of the infinitely variable costs for wheels and tires. I'm simply looking at the most affordable way to change out my bolt pattern to Ford/Mopar 4.5" on 5. Adapters are out as I don't want to throw the track out another inch on each side.

This car is quite literally just a grocery getter/cruise Central type car.

66Dvert... thank you very much for taking the time to break out the Scarebird cost.

Total appx. cost may be on their site but I definitely missed it if it is.

if your looking to change to 5x4.5 your and use scarebird kit your going to have to change the hub, spindle; lower ball joint and I think upper; your in for quite abit of work
 
if your looking to change to 5x4.5 your and use scarebird kit your going to have to change the hub, spindle; lower ball joint and I think upper; your in for quite abit of work


NO you do not need to change all that stuff.
unless you want to use only mopar parts to do the change over(but then you wouldn't need scarebird conversion) and would have used parts still! Why would he do that when all he has to do is redrill and tap the hubs on his 9" drums out to the 5 on 4.5 pattern and use 2 inch long 1/2-20 screw in studs. since the rotors ALREADY have a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I have done it on a couple of cars already, not counting either of mine since they are not drivable yet. 1 of em (1 of the ones I did for someone else) has put over 10k (with V8 in it now) on the setup and he beats the heck out of it thinking it's a corner carver and that's using all the 9" drum parts. AND with the hub redrilled and using screw in studs all he has to do when it comes time to change the pads/rotors is buy em, no more redrilling rotors to 5 on 4.0. just slap em on ans back to business. I can say that you need a GOOD proportioning valve to make things work correctly(I used a stock 73+ one that works great but it's old) I have used the adjustable ones as well.
 
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