Shift Kit

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That's my personal favorite street/strip shift kit and I've been rebuilding torqueflites for 32 yrs. If you don't have one get yourself a good inch lb torque wrench. 1/4 or 3/8 drive is fine. Since your dealing with mostly aluminum components it's always better to torque things. While your at it get a good neoprene embossed steel core pan gasket. They seal far better then the std. cork gaskets and are re-usable. Also, while you have it apart, replace the front seal if it's very old.
 
Sounds good, I'll go with the TF2 then and that gasket.
Front seal? The seal in the tail housing around the driveshaft was leaking so I had it replaced and that's the only one I know about (other than internal ones). What filter would you recommend, I was thinking of the wix one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-58707
Fishy68 - I've got a 904 in my driveway right now that I'm contemplating keeping and rebuilding, how hard is it to rebuild a torqueflight? I've heard it's pretty easy as long as you follow the correct steps.
 
Front seal is the one around the staff behind the converter.Sounds like it is still in the car?If so replace the two seals on the shifter also.I did mine with the engine out and it was a huge pain,but alot worse if the motor was in.The shift shaft seal is around the shifter and I used a metal screw to drive down into it and pryed it out but you will need a deep well socket big enuff to go over the shifter to drive the seal on striaght(this was the huge pain part) not much swinging room for a hammer.The other seal is held in with a clip on top of the shifter shaft,its pretty simple to change.
 
ya it's in the car with no plan on taking it out anytime soon (until motor comes out) so I'll probably do all the seals then if I'm not going to replace the tranny any time soon.
 
7dswinger said:
ya it's in the car with no plan on taking it out anytime soon (until motor comes out) so I'll probably do all the seals then if I'm not going to replace the tranny any time soon.
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When you have the motor out you can drop the front of the tranny to make changeing the shift seals easier
 
Thats the same kit I like to use in my torqueflites....I also use a 3.8 lever, and a nice deep pan.
 
after clicking the link and reading "Goes back to low at any speed", I really want this kit... my only fear is that my trans already has an older mopar performance kit with a switched out separator plate so I'm worried I'd need a stock plate for this kit to work correctly? as far as I recall, the mopar kit replaces that plate, has a few aluminum plugs to place in specific locations, and I think the accumulator spring and one of the check balls is removed which might have an effect on things toward me being able to install this in mine. Sigh :blob:
 
Right about the time the detent ball for the shifter/sector shaft shoots off into the woods somewhere never to be found, you will remember that I said one of the tricks to doing this is "To not let the detent ball shoot off into the woods never to be found when you pull the sector out of the valve body." :)
 
This ball, it's spring loaded.
 

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7dswinger said:
Sounds good, I'll go with the TF2 then and that gasket.
Front seal? The seal in the tail housing around the driveshaft was leaking so I had it replaced and that's the only one I know about (other than internal ones). What filter would you recommend, I was thinking of the wix one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-58707
Fishy68 - I've got a 904 in my driveway right now that I'm contemplating keeping and rebuilding, how hard is it to rebuild a torqueflight? I've heard it's pretty easy as long as you follow the correct steps.
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Like 410 said it's behind the torque converter. Since it's still in the car (I didn't think it was when I recommended replacing it) don't worry about it for now. The Wix filter is fine. Their real easy to rebuild. You will need a few special tools. An inch lb. torque wrench, a set of large snap ring pliers, a way to compress the front clutch spring to disassemble it to replace the seals, a large c-clamp, a dial indicator, and a set of feeler gauges. You might also want to buy a manual. A super good book is this one

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-A-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359085466&sr=8-1&keywords=torqueflite+727"]Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications: Carl Munroe: 9781557883995: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

It's written for a 727 but the 904 is it's little brother and most things are very similar except the 904 parts are smaller. The only 3 differences I can think of between them are the design of the front pump, the design of the front clutch in which the 727 uses a spring pack of 6-12 springs (depending on what it was originally designed for) and the 904 uses a single large spring. And the end play is set differently. If you decide to go ahead with the rebuild PM me and I'll tell you how the end play is set.

Oh yeah, make sure the spare 904 you have uses the correct input shaft for your car. Cars made through 67 used a 18 spline shaft, 68 and later take a 27 spline input shaft. If it is a later one verify whether or not it's a lockup unit and what you want to use in the car.
 
TrailBeast said:
Right about the time the detent ball for the shifter/sector shaft shoots off into the woods somewhere never to be found, you will remember that I said one of the tricks to doing this is "To not let the detent ball shoot off into the woods never to be found when you pull the sector out of the valve body." :)
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LOL... That always sucks. First time I did one I spent 45 minutes looking for it in the garage. :banghead: Lucky for me it didn't make it out the door
 
squeek360 said:
after clicking the link and reading "Goes back to low at any speed", I really want this kit... my only fear is that my trans already has an older mopar performance kit with a switched out separator plate so I'm worried I'd need a stock plate for this kit to work correctly? as far as I recall, the mopar kit replaces that plate, has a few aluminum plugs to place in specific locations, and I think the accumulator spring and one of the check balls is removed which might have an effect on things toward me being able to install this in mine. Sigh :blob:
Click to expand...

If yours has a kit in it now you probably won't see very much difference at all. If you really want to do it I'd suggest finding a non-molested valve body. As for the going back to low at any speed, I haven't had any that wouldn't drop back down to low when I pulled the shifter down. Of course I'm not dumb enough to do it at 100 mph though so it might not at that speed, LOL
 
I'll keep the ball in mind when replacing it.
The spare 904 is a 74 and my car's a 72 so it'll work.
Still looking into wether or not I want to rebuild the 904 or find a a 518 and rebuild it.
 
Overdrive sure is nice but keep in mind you'll have to do some floor cutting/surgery and either build or buy a crossmember to make the 518 fit.
 
Which is why it's a big debate for me.
How hards the TF-2 to install, I've been looking into it and apparantly the supplied directions are a bit iffy. Doesn't seem that hard as long as you keep the parts clean and in order.
Can't find one of those gaskets for a 904, only for 727's.
Edit: I should explain that I can't do the work at home so I use an open source shop near me so I have to drive there, do the work and drive home so I don't want to get stuck over there lol
 
fishy68 said:
If yours has a kit in it now you probably won't see very much difference at all. If you really want to do it I'd suggest finding a non-molested valve body. As for the going back to low at any speed, I haven't had any that wouldn't drop back down to low when I pulled the shifter down. Of course I'm not dumb enough to do it at 100 mph though so it might not at that speed, LOL
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ha ha, yeah... definitely don't wanna be grabbing low at 100. Mine; however, hydraulically locks me out of low right about 2000 rpm. thinking I might have to play with governor/throttle pressures in order to sort this out.
 
7dswinger said:
Which is why it's a big debate for me.
How hards the TF-2 to install, I've been looking into it and apparantly the supplied directions are a bit iffy. Doesn't seem that hard as long as you keep the parts clean and in order.
Can't find one of those gaskets for a 904, only for 727's.
Edit: I should explain that I can't do the work at home so I use an open source shop near me so I have to drive there, do the work and drive home so I don't want to get stuck over there lol
Click to expand...

Their instructions could definetly be better. The TF-2 kit isn't hard to install, but it is more time consuming than other kits but that's because it's a lot more in depth. I have been rebuilding torqueflites for over 30 yrs. and had used nearly every kit on the market and sometimes they worked ok but a lot of the time I had to take it back apart to modify something to get things working like they should. In other words they were inconsistant. I started using trans-go kits about 15 yrs. ago and every single time they have worked great. There is one step that requires removal of the rear servo and installing a spacer and new spring and that's the only hard part at all and it's not really that hard. The mods to the valve body are very simple but like you said you have to keep the parts in order and clean. Look for a gasket for an overdrive trans. model A500 also known as a 42RH or 42RE. They were made from 87 to 2000. The pans are the same on them. If you have trouble finding one let me know.
 
Thought so but google let me down on that one.
Sounds good, I'm going to look into the valve body of my spare 904 to see what's in there and have a spare if I need to for some odd reason.
Sounds good, is the servo just hard to get out as it's stuck in there?
I got all the stuff ordered yesterday and I'll get the seal ordered today.
I'm hoping it'll go in smoothly and work right initially.
 
The servo mod is just kinda tricky. You have to completely remove the rear band adjusting screw then stick a long flat blade screwdriver up inside against the lug on the band to compress it more so you can remove the band strut (flat steel spacer) which allows the servo actuator to drop out of the way so you can take the servo apart and do the modification to it. Putting it back together isn't quite as hard as all you do is spin the band back into position and move the servo actuator into position and pop the spacer back in where it goes, install the adjuster screw and adjust the band.

BTW: I just looked at the TF-2 instructions to refresh my memory cause it's been so long since I did a 904. I told you wrong on having to install a spacer in the low/rev servo. You just change the spring to a heavier duty one. But the disassembly I described above is still necessary.
 
It sounds more complicated than it is. I can do it in less than 1/2 hr. You need a inch lb. torque wrench to torque the rear band adjuster screw to 72 inch lbs. then back it off 2-1/2 turns if it's a single wrap rear band or 4 turns if it's a double wrap band. Just returning the adjusting screw to where it was in not sufficient as the band is worn from age and I'm sure needed adjusted.
 
Will it be clear it it's a single or 4 wrap band? Ok that makes more sense, glad I asked!
 
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