JR
Pissed off senior member.
What do you pay? I was just quoted $130 to shorten one 1" and balance it. I can have a new one built with a new yoke and new u-joints for $200 from another place. Seems kinda high for shortening one.
Shorten driveshaft?
- Thread starter JR
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Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Last one I had done was $125.00.
65Vart
Well-Known Member
good info I am just about to take 2 1/4 inches off mine for the 7 1/4 to 8 3/4 swap. Was not aware it was that pricey.
rlk211
Well-Known Member
Just had it done, $60 to cut and balance it.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
I paid $75 to cut, balance and install new u-joints. Another time I paided $135 for cut, install new yoke, balance and install new u-joints.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
I normally cut and weld my own......then again most of the ones I have done have been for mud trucks that do not see high road speeds so I did not bother having them balanced.
However...I would save the $$$ and cut and weld it yourself and then just foot the bill to have it balanced out at a shop.
However...I would save the $$$ and cut and weld it yourself and then just foot the bill to have it balanced out at a shop.
71DartGuy
Well-Known Member
Good Lord those prices. I had mine shortened for the second time a few weeks ago and it was $36 for the cut and would have been another $16 to balance. I've had it shortened two times and its still balanced.
Mr.Ed
Swollen Member
$95 to shorten and balance aluminum shaft. 2 new joints brought the price up to $156 total.
I don't thing the amount of shortening matters 1" or 10", the labor is the same.
A lot of places say they balance the shaft, but in reality all they do is "true it up" and cross their fingers.
I don't thing the amount of shortening matters 1" or 10", the labor is the same.
A lot of places say they balance the shaft, but in reality all they do is "true it up" and cross their fingers.
JR
Pissed off senior member.
I may end up shortening it myself (I do have a little bid of welding experience under my belt :roll: ) then just pay for it to be balanced. I could build a jig out of angle iron to keep it strait. Any other tricks from someone that has done it before?
1BadDodge71
FABO Rice Hater
Ok,so Im putting a 360 SB with a 727 TF in my /6 72 Duster,but Im keeping the 7/14 rear.What do I expect to pay?And does the yolk have to be changed over to fit the 727?How many inches have to taken off my driveshaft?O.O
JR
Pissed off senior member.
Your going to have to pay for the driveshaft to be shortened twice. Once for the 360/727 and once after you blow the 7 1/4 into a billion little pieces then install a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4.
Slappy
Well-Known Member
HMMM I cut my own. Pretty simple task. I cut it and re-welded it. I took off two inches. I didnt re-balance and have no issues at 70mph.
1BadDodge71
FABO Rice Hater
well crap,if a sbp A body 8 3/4 were a little easier to find and not so damn expensive to get(ive seen people sell them on here for over $700),I would have one already,lol.But when I DO decide to tear up the 7 1/4 ,ill be sure to take pictures of the carnage.lol Besides,I plan on driving it as normal as can.Im sure the 7 1/4 will not tear up just by cruising it.Its not going to be drag car.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
I dont actually cut the shaft right away.
You shouldnt need a jig.
What i do it I set the drive shaft in a vise...I score a mark in the cap and down the shaft so I can keep track of the end caps orientation to the shaft and I take a hand grinder and i grind the the weld of the cap off and then i grind a " V " shape into where the weld was....I then chizzle the hole end cap ( U joint end ) off of the shaft ...(which has an inside diameter sleeve that sets inside the actual drive shaft)....then I cut the shaft down to the size I need and I reinsert the (u-joint end cap) into the drive shaft and align it with the orientation marks I scribed and then reweld it.
then its almost just like it was from the factory just shorted and the only thing that changes that may effect balance is how you weld but if you do a good job welding and cleaning up your welds...I don't think you would have any balance issues.
You shouldnt need a jig.
What i do it I set the drive shaft in a vise...I score a mark in the cap and down the shaft so I can keep track of the end caps orientation to the shaft and I take a hand grinder and i grind the the weld of the cap off and then i grind a " V " shape into where the weld was....I then chizzle the hole end cap ( U joint end ) off of the shaft ...(which has an inside diameter sleeve that sets inside the actual drive shaft)....then I cut the shaft down to the size I need and I reinsert the (u-joint end cap) into the drive shaft and align it with the orientation marks I scribed and then reweld it.
then its almost just like it was from the factory just shorted and the only thing that changes that may effect balance is how you weld but if you do a good job welding and cleaning up your welds...I don't think you would have any balance issues.
65Vart
Well-Known Member
Mine survived 2 summers of just cruzes but every time I pulled a gear I was waiting for the explosion. Finally got my 8 3/4 with bigger brakes too, Now onto the front discs ! Sorry to post this picture again but WTF its cool and I"m excited. Ordered my KYBs today.
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