Shortening rear end and backing brace?

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Butch67

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Hey,
I am going to build a "B" or "C" body 8 3/4" rear end for my 71 dart. Is there a better choice to start with? I have been looking up Dana's but they are very expensive and this is a street car that may make the odd trip to the track.

Right now it has a complete 8 3/4" "A" body 4" SBP set up with drum brakes, that are in excellent condition. I don't want to cut this one up, when I am going to replace everything anyway.

The car is mini-tubbed and spring relocation done too. It's a 440 with a 4 speed.

My plan is to get the rear end sand blasted, ready for shortening and welding a backing brace on it.
My thought is to weld the old flanges to my very solid steel welding table, with the opening facing straight down and modify the backing support to fit then weld it in place. I plan on using a 2"x4" square tubing and triangleate it out to where I know the new flanges are going to be welded on.
I will be doing 2" stitch welds so I don't put to much heat in it, but should I be using Stick for this or MIG?

I figure this is the best way to keep the rear end straight with all the welding for the brace.

Does anyone have some sort of drawing or schematic of this brace? I can make my own but thought it may be easier to get some other idea's.

Then cut the rear end off the table and cut the tubes to the correct length to weld the new flanges back on. I have seen a couple different ways to do it, but I am going to use the long steel bar with spacers and sleeves to get it straight.

Any help, or support would be great, I really don't want to have to do this twice.
When I weld the new flanges on, they will also be stitch welded on and I am sure this will be done with stick also trying to minimize heat input?

I know I am forgetting something along the way yet!!!

Thanks,
 
If you back brace, run it all the way to the housing ends.
 
you need to weld the ends on with a jig that centers the housing ends with the bearings on the third member, I back brace with a tube and land the brace on the rear end tubes right before the inner most u-bolt, I will try and get you a picture tonight
 
this is a picture of how I weld the ends on, this is a nine inch housing that I build but its the same for an 8.75, this rear does not have the tube back brace I mentioned above because this is a ladder bar housing, I have solid bushings in the third member instead of bearings, same thing out on the housing ends.


 
Thanks for the info.
I have the bar and the spacers already, as well as an empty center section to pass the bar through to ensure the flanges stay straight.

It's more the welding sequence, and type MIG or Stick for them both.
Also the design style/configuration for the strong back.

I have seen them on the internet made from square tubing, pipe, and flat bar with small spacers.
I can make any of them, but want to know which is best?
It doesn't need to be easiest, as I am in no rush, and want to make it right.

I like the square tubing look the best, but again I just want it correct/best.

thanks, again
 
Thanks for the info.
I have the bar and the spacers already, as well as an empty center section to pass the bar through to ensure the flanges stay straight.

It's more the welding sequence, and type MIG or Stick for them both.
Also the design style/configuration for the strong back.

I have seen them on the internet made from square tubing, pipe, and flat bar with small spacers.
I can make any of them, but want to know which is best?
It doesn't need to be easiest, as I am in no rush, and want to make it right.

I like the square tubing look the best, but again I just want it correct/best.

thanks, again
I make them out of round tube and 2x3 square tube, the tube way, I make a card board template and draw it on the 3" side then cut it out with a band saw, I usually tig everything
 
pretty good read here [ame]http://www.mittlerbros.com/media/downloads/47/1000-RENK1%20Instructions.pdf[/ame]
 
Thanks, that is awesome information
The work sheets look like they could really help me out.
 
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