Shot starter?

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SirDan

SirDan

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I installed headers went out for a drive, stopped to check oil and adjust timing a bit. Got back in turned the key and all I got was a click. My friend came with his toyota pickup to jump me. We had to let it sit for 3-5 minutes before there was just enough power to get it started.

This morning I took out my multi meter and the battery reads 12 volts. 12 volts at the big connector on the starter. engine is stone cold and it just clicks when I turn the key. Is there anything else I can test?

If it is the starter can I get one smaller? nothing too pricey though.
 
Might be the starter relay, might be something else

MAKE SURE that when you jumper the start relay that you are actually hearing the starter solenoid pull in, and check the voltage at the BIG stud down at the starter.

IF you have juice at the big stud, and the solenoid pulls in, bad starter.
 
Make sure when you hit the key you have at minimum 10.5 volts on the big starter terminal if it drops away to zero then comes back with the key off you have either an open cell in your battery or poor connection (usually ground). Also you can check starter draw and load test battery I just changed out my battery for similar symptoms. (My battery was good and started my car at 3:30 and at five it was junk)
 
I think it was 12.6 actually. my friend brought some fancy battery tester home and it said it was good.
 
Check the nut on the B+ lug, make sure it's snug and as always, check all connections. If you have a multi meter, check for proper voltage at the starter itself with the ignition switch on then when cranking, may be too much voltage drop over your pos. cable. With an assistant cranking, try to wiggle the wiring and see if it fires. If it cranks and starts then you have a bad connection/poor ground somewhere.

You can also try a couple raps with a hammer when trying to crank it over. windings may be missing connections. Replace starter.

Usually one click does mean the starter is toast though. If it buzzes/stutters it's usually the battery. Not always mind you, but probably a good bet.

Mini starters are relatively inexpensive. Just ask for one for a 5.2/5.9 Dakota. Roadside Auto Parts (now Carquest) on West Hills Rd. is OK.
 
nuttyprof said:
12 volts is a dead battery, fully charged it should be at least 12.6
Click to expand...

actually the rule of thumb is this

9.6 volts + you can charge it and it may hold a charge, very dead battery
11 volts, about a 50% charge may start car, but only the once
12 volts, about 3/4 charged, most new batteries come this way
12.6 volts, fully charged and good to go
14+ volts, car is running and charging
 
One thing I might suggest is to wrap the starter with some heat shield material, or make a heat shield for it, if you are running a full size starter to prevent it from getting too hot. I toasted mine last summer.

However it sounds as if your battery is on it's way out.
 
Well I put the battery on the charger for a bit, threw it back in the car and it cranked fine and fired.

Just out of curiosity is it a sure fire crappy battery or is it possible its not getting a charge from the alt?

Glad its not the starter! I think I will try and get some head wrap at Carlisle this weekend.
 
SirDan said:
Well I put the battery on the charger for a bit, threw it back in the car and it cranked fine and fired.

Just out of curiosity is it a sure fire crappy battery or is it possible its not getting a charge from the alt?

Glad its not the starter! I think I will try and get some head wrap at Carlisle this weekend.
Click to expand...

check with a voltmeter when the car is running, it should be charging anywhere from 13-14 volts, if its around 12 its not charging
 
Right at the battery. 13.5-14.5 is more like it, 13.8 is about optimum.
 
My friend had a fancy tester and it was at like 12 volts with the engine running. the fancy tool indicated the charging was weak. Is there any way to test at the alt to make sure there are no shorts or messed up wires from the alt to the battery?
 
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