Show Me Your Battery Kill Switch

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Here's mine when I was working on it. The rod goes through the back of the car under the tail light. I used a plastic push-in bushing in the hole. I figure when it's on the street, I'll just unscrew the rod from the switch and have a 1/2" hole. No biggie.

trunk21.jpg
 
I know I've posted these before, so here goes.

This way is legal, but far from the best or safest approach. The wire from the alternator is hot all the time. If you've never seen a car burn to the ground after the switch was thrown because that one wire was still hot, it's a real pleasure to watch.

trunkbattwire2.jpg

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Another without the alt relay. So the alt wire is hot all the time. Not the best method, IMO. It does keep the starter main lead cold except when the starter solenoid is switched.

trunkbattwire1.jpg


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Here's a real simple relay method on alt wire. Relay runs about $20-40 and is cheap insurance in my book. Kill power from the relay forward.

trunkbattwire3.jpg


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My preferred method which incorporates an S605 continuous duty relay. Throw the main cut off switch, nothing is hot outside a small area in the trunk.

trunkbattwireRY.jpg


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As far as how to mount the switch itself, you have to find a spot. Seen rods come out through the base of the trunk lid, through taillights, mounted on plates just below the bumper.
 
I did mine with a hot alt wire. Near the disconnect is a Painless maxi-fuse in the alt wire. In case of a dead short, the fuse should pop. It's in the spot you show a fusible link.

I also have a maxi fuse in the feed from the disconnect switch to the fuse box, which is the "standard" location.
 
crackedback: Again thanks for the diagrams. I'm sure other members will use them when they install a kill switch.
 
Is there any reason the disconnect has to be on the "+" side? Why not put the switch between on the battery and the chassis ground?

Thank you,
Kory
 
The Flaming River switch I use is 250 Continuous Amps.
 
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