Shudder on hard acceleration - 904

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Three-nuts

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Greetings, I acquired a '74 Dart Custom about a month ago. Odometer reads 116K, slant 6 225. When shifted into any gear the car body would vibrate at idle, and shudder violently through the front end & steering wheel during hard acceleration. The shuddering would abate the when the load was diminished, and at highway speeds, it was smooth. This is not a harmonic vibration issue.

Replaced the 225 last week due to failing rod bearings, first on #5 and then on others. Got the replacement motor, a 1971 with a reported 44K on it, installed and sorted out. This motor runs and idles smooth as glass, got the timing, mixture and idle speed dialled in.

It still has the vibration in gear, but not quite as badly. The shudder on acceleration, however, is the same - very bad. Out of first, it improves; unloaded or at light acceleration, it's smooth. At various highway speeds, smooth as glass.

Again, I've had harmonic balance problems in prior MoPars; one was a mismatched torque converter, and the other (on three separate cars over a 20-year period: a '65 Fury, a '74 Fury, and an '83 Ram conversion van) was due to failing U-joints, This doesn't feel anything like that.

On another forum it was opined that the transmission may have a faulty lockup converter. The slant 6 forum described the difference between a lockup & a non-lockup by describing the different spline setups: the lockup had a sheath-type spline shaft with a 3"-plus smooth shaft in the center; the non-lockup was a solid shaft, splined all the way to the end. Being a '74, it shouldn't have a lockup converter, but I did take the following photo during the motor swap:

lSiJQ.jpg


Is it possible that this is a 1978 or newer trans?

Another issue: the kickdown link was intentionally disconnected & appears to have been that way for years. When I hooked it up, I found out why: at any speed under about 50, any pressure on the accelerator would force a downshift into 2nd. I am assuming this is an adjustment issue only...

Along with the '71 motor I got the matching '71 transmission with TC & driveshaft. I have not checked the driveshaft that is currently on the car. My plan is to swap out the driveshafts & see if there is any change. If none, and if the shafts appear to be in good shape, I plan on swapping in the 1971 904, which has a solid spline.

The rear springs are original, and likely have some sag, but the car sits level. No other obvious problems were noted. The car appears to have been sitting a while, and was neglected, but not altered or abused.
 
That is not a lock-up trans. Sounds like your due for a trans rebuild. I would have the 71 rebuilt and install it.
 
Thanks...with 44K on it, I'm tempted to change the fluid and filter in the '71 and run it as-is...
 
Check engine and transmission mounts for sagging and deterioration. Also check pinion and drive shaft angles, if out of spec this can cause viberation.

Chances are someone cranked up the line pressure on the valve body which would screw up shift points. Normally if a Torqueflite’s throttle position linkage is disconnected on a non-manual reverse valve body, the front clutch pack will quickly burn up. A slipping front clutch pack will sometimes cause shuddering, as well as a failing torque converter. There are other possible causes as well, so find a FSM and read through the transmission trouble shooting pages.

Minimally you need to perform a basic transmission service: drop the pan, check the line pressure setting measurement, adjust bands, change filter, fill with new fluid, and see if that helps. Also the correct throttle position linkage needs to be reconnected and properly adjusted, or an aftermarket cable installed if you have the wrong linkage.
 
Check engine and transmission mounts for sagging and deterioration. Also check pinion and drive shaft angles, if out of spec this can cause viberation.

I replaced all of these mounts already, sorry I didn't mention in my post...

Chances are someone cranked up the line pressure on the valve body which would screw up shift points.

This is a four-door grannymobile...although I have no way of knowing the service or maintenance history, this car appears to have suffered more from neglect than anything else. It appeared entirely unmolested - almost a time machine. For all I know, the retainer rusted, fell off, and no one noticed.

Normally if a Torqueflite’s throttle position linkage is disconnected on a non-manual reverse valve body, the front clutch pack will quickly burn up. A slipping front clutch pack will sometimes cause shuddering, as well as a failing torque converter. There are other possible causes as well, so find a FSM and read through the transmission trouble shooting pages.
Minimally you need to perform a basic transmission service: drop the pan, check the line pressure setting measurement, adjust bands, change filter, fill with new fluid, and see if that helps. Also the correct throttle position linkage needs to be reconnected and properly adjusted, or an aftermarket cable installed if you have the wrong linkage.

I am a moron when it comes to transmissions. I can change the fluid, filter & seals...and change 'em out...that's about all I'm good for :) But this above makes sense. It feels like manual clutch chatter to me. I'm sure I can figure out the linkage adjustment if it's needed on the other trans.


Appreciate the knowledge shared. Thanks, all.
 
I believe SG's right. That's not a lock up trans. and sounds like it's time for a rebuild. Running it with the kickdown disconnected for any period of time will trash a trans. That linkage not only controls kickdown but also controls line pressure to the clutch packs and band apply servo's. When it's disconnected the line pressure will always be low and can let the clutches and bands slip. If it were a torquey V8 it would have been trash a long time ago (no disrespect to /6's)
 
just rip out the trans and put the one in you got with the motor. why would you have not done that in the first place? like the others mentioned the old trans is toast anyway.
 
just rip out the trans and put the one in you got with the motor. why would you have not done that in the first place? like the others mentioned the old trans is toast anyway.

I wasn't sure it was the problem & didn't notice the kickdown was disconnected until after I'd pulled it. I debated changing them both out but figured I'd take the chance. Part of it was I do not have a load leveller or an assistant to help guide in the trans.

It wasn't as obvious a decision then as it is now. Replacing the transmission is relatively simple anyhow.

(edit) Cleaned up the '71, waiting on a seal kit...

gWODw.jpg


..which leads me on another issue: The kickdown rod doesn't have any slot or adjustment...the end that attaches to the carburetor linkage is just a flattened end with a hole in it - no slot, and no place to mount a spring. How do I adjust it?
 
Changed out the 904 yesterday without any problems...there was a leak in the pan; I may have to switch over to a cork gasket.

It solved all of the shuddering problems (yay!), although there's still a vibration at idle that drills into the canter of your skull. In P or N, the motor idles smooth.


I took it out on 295 and put it through it's paces to see how well it would function & to test the kickdown (which wound up needing adjustment, since it wouldn't). I've got it firewalled when the exhaust gets loud. I figured my little Permatex patch blew out on #1, & eased off the gas pedal. The pedal, however, had other ideas and stayed on the floor & the car kept on truckin'.

I killed the ignition & coasted to the breakdown lane in neutral. The throttle laid wide open and the return spring as well as it's anchor on the exhaust manifold were gone. I took the kickdown spring & rigged it till I got home.

Turns out the spring anchor left the building when the choke stove bolt head popped off. I found the return spring lying on the block.

The exhaust leak was not my repair blowing out, but rather the choke stove assembly. When the bolt head popped, exhaust pressure blew the stove up out of it's recess a little ways.

N2ePH.jpg


Drilled out & tapped both bolt holes, gooped it up with more copper RTV, reinstalled the stove, and let it sit overnight. Will be checking shortly to see if it worked.
 
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