Single stage paint job.. no shine

-
44070dart

44070dart

How the hell did I get this old..
Joined
Jul 9, 2004
Messages
2,874
Reaction score
5,035
Location
right here ...see me I'm waving.. NY
I just picked up a Chevelle that I was told that it was painted with base paint without clear last year, and put into storage right after. The car has no shine, looks like a flat paint job. It's silver and just looks dull. Is there any way to give it some gloss at this point. The past owner had no clue as to why it looks the way it is.

339126037_628464269095515_5487205876754666506_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
Could be several things, not the least of which could be too much reducer or got cold or damp immediately after spraying. That's a silver. You can't wet sand single stage metallics without streaking the metallics. A light polish might do it but it's hard to tell from a photo.
 
I can't really tell the extent of the flatness from the photo but a polish might bring some of the shine back, but you can't really cut too far into into the finish without running the risk of cutting into the metallics which will leave streaks that you can't fix. I would try a small corner that isn't too noticeable first and see what kind of results you get.
 
Is the paint smooth? Without and bumps or cracks?

Lightly sand it and spray it with clear. Lots of work but would shine then.
 
413 said:
Is the paint smooth? Without and bumps or cracks?

Lightly sand it and spray it with clear. Lots of work but would shine then.
Click to expand...
As was previously mentioned, it's single stage metallic, if you sand it even lightly you better be prepared to respray it.....
 
413 said:
Is the paint smooth? Without and bumps or cracks?

Lightly sand it and spray it with clear. Lots of work but would shine then.
Click to expand...
Actually it's not smooth, you can feel a little ruffness. Yeah, no bumps or cracks in the paint. I talked to a guy about cut and buffing. Painting it is out, as the cost is more than I want to put in this car. Didn't know you could clear over single stage.
 
Perhaps start with a clay bar if the paint isn’t smooth? It will feel like glass after all the imperfections are out.
 
1WildRT said:
As was previously mentioned, it's single stage metallic, if you sand it even lightly you better be prepared to respray it.....
Click to expand...
Yep missed that part. Flat silver. Well there is no saving it then. Enjoy it for what it is.
 
Didn't they use to make a 30% clear with SS? It isn't supposed to shine. The only thing it think could be done is...a very light 600 grit and SS clear. But, if you don't know the brand, you will probably have adhesion issues. Metallic will flatten and look like dirt in the paint. I know there are a couple professional painters here and maybe one will reply. I'm not and painted a few. I would try 3m machine polish, purple bottle, light not aggressive. My 2cents. Ask the previous owner who what when. Craig
 
I'd start with a clay bar like mentioned above. If it's rough because of the spray job (dry, gun being too far away) then the clay bar will have no effect. If it's rough because it's dirty, then you'll want to get that out before hand.

I'd first hit it with a foam pad on a buffer and see if that does anything. If it doesn't seem to be pulling up much of the color, you can try a more aggressive wool pad to see if that cuts it to your liking. Then foam pad and soft foam pad to polish and see if you can get the shine out of it that you want.

Maybe smart in an inconspicuous spot like the passenger rocker.
 
Cuda Al said:
How do we know it isn't a B/C without the clear?


Alan
Click to expand...
I don't. The owner thought it was base without clear but he is pretty clueless about that part. I had a guy look at it and he was sure it was single stage. I'll get other opinions when it's on the road. Got a flex plate issue. OM Ray has offered help also.
 
Last edited:
Put some rubbing compound on a rag, Rub the paint either in the door jamb or some less visible location.... Did the rag stay the same color? Or pick up some silver gray tint?? If your rubbing on clear no color will come of... Single stage will release so color to the rag..
 
BIG difference between “base coat” and “single stage”. I think we all agree with that. That withstanding, the test to differentiate between the two would go like this. Much like 1WildRT mentioned, find a inconspicuous area. I’m not sure the jams would be the best spot as they may not reflect what is on the outer body. The jambs may have been cleared already. Mind you, there is a clear basecoat and is often used with custom paints especially when more than one color is involved.

Slightly wet a white rag or paper towel with lacquer thinner and quickly wipe the chosen area. I’m thinking the bottom of the rocker panel. If it is base coat, it will immediately transfer color and probably discolor the area. Single stage will take more effort to transfer the color and be harder to dis-color. Again, it may have basecoat clear on it and may not transfer color immediately.

If that is the case wet it again and touch it with your finger really quickly. If it is base coat only, it should feel a little tacky. Single stage paint will hold up a little better and not be tacky with a quick wetting.

Make sure you figure out what you have before you take a buffer or sandpaper to it.
NOW technically, if you decide it is base coat CLEAR, you can lightly scuff it with #800 and clear it. If it is basecoat without clear, it needs to be sanded and more base coat color applied for proper adheasion of the subsequent clear coats.

Off the record. If you decide it is basecoat, I’ve often thought you could spray it all with a quality universal reducer and that would soften it up enough to warrant NOT sanding it and having to re-apply more color. You can not clear over sanded base coat without adding more color. This is definitely not an approved procedure and I have never done it. Best of wishes in your findings and decisions.
 
Last edited:
Bodyperson said:
BIG difference between “base coat” and “single stage”. I think we all agree with that. That withstanding, the test to differentiate between the two would go like this. Much like 1WildRT mentioned, find a inconspicuous area. I’m not sure the jams would be the best spot as they may not reflect what is on the outer body. The jambs may have been cleared already. Mind you, there is a clear basecoat and is often used with custom paints especially when more than one color is involved.

Slightly wet a white rag or paper towel with lacquer thinner and quickly wipe the chosen area. I’m thinking the bottom of the rocker panel. If it is base coat, it will immediately transfer color and probably discolor the area. Single stage will take more effort to transfer the color and be harder to dis-color. Again, it may have basecoat clear on it and may not transfer color immediately.

If that is the case wet it again and touch it with your finger really quickly. If it is base coat only, it should feel a little tacky. Single stage paint will hold up a little better and not be tacky with a quick wetting.

Make sure you figure out what you have before you take a buffer or sandpaper to it.
NOW technically, if you decide it is base coat CLEAR, you can lightly scuff it with #800 and clear it. If it is basecoat without clear, it needs to be sanded and more base coat color applied for proper adheasion of the subsequent clear coats.

Off the record. If you decide it is basecoat, I’ve often thought you could spray it all with a quality universal reducer and that would soften it up enough to warrant NOT sanding it and having to re-apply more color. You can not clear over sanded base coat without adding more color. This is definitely not an approved procedure and I have never done it. Best of wishes in your findings and decisions.
Click to expand...
My Duster is Single stage/ w clear in it. If you wash her and wax her up she actually shines pretty doggone good... that advice you gave the op reminds me about how to find a difference between oil-based paint and water-based paint on the inside of a house on your Millwork and doors if you take a rag with rubbing alcohol and smear it on the trim, and it transfers, it's a latex, if it don't it's an oil, and you can't really put oil over latex successfully! I know it's off topic but maybe it'll help somebody around here! I know it's off topic, but maybe it'll help somebody around here, somewhere... anyway, I hope the OP get his issues straightened out!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top