Slant 225 motor codes from VIN and trans mating questions

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DodgeLad

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I'm thinking about having a used motor crated to my home. I'm looking for '81+ 2bbl for my daily driver 1980 truck with A727. I've looked over the chart from Allpar and I'm confused about all the 225 types. There are 1bbl, 2bbl, special order, heavy duty, high performance and standard. Does anyone here know what all this means?
Chrysler VIN Decoding, 1926 - 2005: Dodge, Plymouth...

My other question is what issues might I have mating a motor from a manual trans to my A727?
 
where is "The Duke City"? never heard of it. The trucking part will cost more than the engine. especially if youre wanting used. better off to find something kinda local. What is wrong with current engine? If you must have something trucked in, I'd be looking hard at the ones that MABBCO engines offers on FeeBay. I have no experience with the company but for what they are asking for a machine shop engine that is pretty much ready to go, does not sould all that bad. Youll need your original tins and youll also have to provide the manifolds, balancer, pulleys, water pump, etc to finish it off for your application (car or truck)
 
where is "The Duke City"? never heard of it. The trucking part will cost more than the engine. especially if youre wanting used. better off to find something kinda local. What is wrong with current engine? If you must have something trucked in, I'd be looking hard at the ones that MABBCO engines offers on FeeBay. I have no experience with the company but for what they are asking for a machine shop engine that is pretty much ready to go, does not sould all that bad. Youll need your original tins and youll also have to provide the manifolds, balancer, pulleys, water pump, etc to finish it off for your application (car or truck)
Albuquerque, no slant love around here
Albuquerque, New Mexico – 300 Year Old Duke City – Legends of America

Nothing is wrong with current motor. I think I have found a complete hydraulic lifter 2bbl 225 from cold air intake hose to flexplate. I'm looking for a garage project to tinker with since I recently retired. A moneywaster to keep me happy and content.
 
Albuquerque, no slant love around here
Albuquerque, New Mexico – 300 Year Old Duke City – Legends of America

Nothing is wrong with current motor. I think I have found a complete hydraulic lifter 2bbl 225 from cold air intake hose to flexplate. I'm looking for a garage project to tinker with since I recently retired. A moneywaster to keep me happy and content.
If nothing is wrong with the current motor then I would just start looking for a super 6 setup swap that in, adjust the valves, give it a good time up including timing and carb adjustment and drive it into the ground. No need to swap the rest of the engine for that. The rest of the engine is the same between a 1 bbl engine and a 2 bbl engine
 
To ship it check out Fastenal about the cheapest. No oil and strapped to a pallet is all they need.
 
Or post a wanted ad here on FABO, bet someone local to you or with in driving distance will have or know of a slant stuck in the corner of the garage they could part with.
And for your slant to 727 mating question. Mopar had an adapter that connected the 727 to a slant. The adapters are somewhat rare, so if your engine has that don’t loose track of it.
Being rare does not necessarily make them valuable. I believe that at some point in time Mopar also made a special 727 housing that bolted directly to a Slant. VolareDon that replied to this post has a truck with the slant 727 combo and would probably know more about the slant to a 727 than I do.
 
After about 69-70, they came out with a 727 version that was made for the 6. Bolts directly to the engine. Up til then any slant 6 that had a 727 had to use a small block trans, and as everyone knows, a v8 trans won't bolt to the/6. That's when they used an adapter to put a 727 behind the slant 6.
But, people who are looking for an overdrive trans for a slant 6, and don't want to have to shift their own gears, sometimes look for the adapter that 68Barracuda was talking about, as they never put an overdrive automatic behind the slant 6 from the factory. I'd actually be interested in one of those adapters if I could come across any.
 
What I have now is the 1980 slant A727. So if a motor came out of 4-speed manual, I should already have what I need. Seems there's always a catch somewhere, so just asking.
I want to keep my truck in running condition while I futz with a spare motor. By the time I find a Super six setup and all the trimmings, I think I'd rather get a yard motor and build it up and drop it in later. I'm looking at freight prices to make or break that decision.
 
Well getting a used motor with the idea of building it up as you get spare funds and have it ready for action when needed while you continue to drive what you got ain't a bad idea. What you'd want would be a rebuildable core motor. Usually sold cheaper as a core than something sold as ready to go, ready to run etc.
Unless the truck is "down" and I need it back up and running again right away, that's how I usually do things. But if it runs fine as is, no oil pressure issues, etc it's a known quantity right now. Any motor you're gonna find no matter what a seller may say is an unknown. I've gone thru all the work of an engine swap not knowing that my "good runner" replacement was really a turd, and it doesn't make me happy. Even if you put the super 6 setup on this engine for now while you build up the replacement, that's not a bad thing. I'd hate for you to replace a known good engine and wind up with a turd. Lots of wasted effort.
At least you don't have to be in a hurry to find another engine if yours currently runs. Means you don't necessarily have to take the 1st thing that comes along, less chance of getting burnt. If a super 6 stack comes along in the meantime before you get your replacement engine at least by putting it to use on the current engine there's less chance of the carb going stale and getting gummed up from gas having sat in it while you build the engine.

That's what I'm doing right now. I have a replacement engine in the works, but my truck runs and drives as is. And others may say to backtrack to the lighter duty 904 if your 727 is working as it should, I'd leave it alone. I was surprised but glad too, that my truck has that trans vs the lighter one.
The only problem with building an engine in your spare time that you don't need right away, is when you have a goal or plan for how you want to build your engine to suit your needs, is going on forums like this and seeing what everyone else is doing and the " what if" thing gets in your head and the "pressure" to change what you started off doing, because that's what these guys are doing with theirs, you start 2nd guessing yourself and your build plan.
Don't get me wrong, we all need some guidance with such a project but as my goal is low rpm more grunt /because I'm building a motor for a truck that will be used like one, while someone else may be building a high rpm screamer, you get to thinking that you oughtta build yours like this guy's motor.... Or the "might as well's" kick in.
 
I'm keeping the A727, working like new and almost nothing in the pan but a little black silt after the first change when I bought it.
I found a motor 152 miles away in a 1982 D250 van. The guy is checking to see if its a 2bbl and is going to send pics. It's grade A, not that I put any stock in that rating, and they want $450. If all goes well, I'm going to drive to Farmington and take a look. Kind of a pleasant drive anyway.

Thx for all the replies!
 
wow, $450? Over the years I have had a couple that I have had a hard time giving away. My most recent I paid $125 for, to get the super 6 stack, and got the rest of the basket case engine for free..... last summer there were a couple on CL for $75-100, with the "if I don't sell this month they are going to scrap" tagline....
there are a couple on Ebay right now where I think the sellers (hopeful at that) are wanting $600-800.... one is about 30 miles from me,, I wonder what that guy is smoking, to think he might even be in the ballpark.... that is an awful lot to pay when your main goal seems to be to get a Super 6 setup.
If Im gonna pay that much for an engine, I'm either going for a reman "crate" or a big block.....
gotta ask,,,, in that part of the country I wonder if the whole van could be bought, might be able to get the whole thing for $5-600 and drive it away. what is wrong with the van that they are looking to pull the engine and sell it? those vans used to be as common as termites around here but now are extremely few and far between..... and the few taht I do see, the frame rails are rotted out around the steering box mount area. I used to have one about 20 years ago, kinda miss it. They were (and still are) better than any "mini"van could ever hope to be. and I aint buying into the "Transit" or "Promaster" way of thinking. No way.
 
My resources are limited and I don't have room for parts vehicles. And I don't want to talk budget and savings in this thread. I am old and want to do projects I always wanted to before the reaper visits. Invaluable, priceless.

It's not like that around here, everything is expensive. Piecing together ancient parts for a super six is expensive and a real hassle IMO. Everyone has the same idea too. Nice new intake/carb/cam is better.

No reman/crate. Never had any luck going that route. If you have ever dealt with a warranty, you know what I mean. Plus I want to work the head.

But you made me reconsider, so thank you. I think I'll get a rebuildable core, 1980 down. Hydaulic lifter slants don't run well according to Rustyratrod and he knows.
 
I'll say the same thing about the hydraulic lifter version as RRR says.
That said, not saying that that can't be made to run.
 
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