Slant 6 - how to remove safely

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69KillerFish

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I am helping my father in removing the slant 6 and 904 trans in his 71 Dart. We have not separated the trans yet and thought it might come out a little easier if connected. We have a large engine hoist with an adjustable load leveler. As the slant six is "Slanting to the Left" what would be a couple of safe and strong points to attach chain to? The way the motor sits in the engine bay, there does not appear to be a good center of gravity to pull up from. Also - any opinion would be appreciated if anybody has a few hints as to deal with dis-connecting the motor mounts to make removal of the /6 much easier?

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated as this is new to us both for /6's :D
 
x2, Use the holes in the head that point straight up. It'll pull out slanted like it sits in the engine bay. Don't worry, it wont roll once free of the engine mounts.
The ears on the k-frame are slotted, so you can loosen the mounts, pull up on the motor a little, then slide the bolt out 1/4" past the flanges on the ears then hoist away.
 
Here is a shot of the locations we used if your disconnecting the trans. IF you can drop the K frame and bring it all out the bottom that would be easier.

lower bolts for motor mounts are accessible from the bottom through some openings in the k-frame
 

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bolt hole in top of block and one on front, I have a chain hoist attached to rafter in shed, just take the mounts loose and het the angle pretty steep where it will come out at angle, it will have to adjust the angle a few times till you figure it out,
if you will be rebuilding the front suspension, then take it out from the bottom. this is what works for me.
you have a hoist and concrete so that's about 10 times easier that a hoist hooked to the rafter!!! LOL you will be a pro after the first one!!
 
If you pull the trans with the engine (which I would recommend) be sure to drain it as much as possible otherwise you'll get lots of fluid all over the place. You may even want to drain the torque converter by backing out the drain screw. I've always pulled em out the top, you can even keep the hood on the car.
 
If you disconnect the k frame..you can just lift the body up and slide all out..gives you a chance to renew the front suspension....goes in the same way...

We have done both...lifting the body is easier..

I have a pic or two in my rebuild thread..
 
If you pull the trans with the engine (which I would recommend) be sure to drain it as much as possible otherwise you'll get lots of fluid all over the place. You may even want to drain the torque converter by backing out the drain screw. I've always pulled em out the top, you can even keep the hood on the car.

I always keep a couple spare driveshaft yokes around. When you disconnect the driveshaft, grab the spare yoke and slap it in, and just leave it till the engine and trans are out. If you are prepared and quick, you can do this without spilling more than a few drops of ATF.
 
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