Slant Six age and size?

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SpriceyStuff

SpriceyStuff

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Hey guys! Can someone please identify this engine? I got a slant six and I’ve been trying to identify it based on the casting numbers but they’re all a mystery to me. Any help is appreciated.

Side note, where can I get new manifold mounting studs? I broke one of mine while removing the exhaust manifold. Thanks!

Pictures:
 
That number will not help. There should be some numbers stamped onto the block deck surface on the front right side of the block, usually near the alternator.
 
Badvert65 said:
That number will not help. There should be some numbers stamped onto the block deck surface on the front right side of the block, usually near the alternator.
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That’s what I keep hearing. The only thing I found up there is the clock symbol and another similar looking symbol but there’s no numbers there that I can find
 
SpriceyStuff said:
That’s what I keep hearing. The only thing I found up there is the clock symbol and another similar looking symbol but there’s no numbers there that I can find
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Here is a pic of what it should look like. This is up by where the alternator mount bolts to the engine.
20170528_132926.jpg
 
Napa ST18,
dorman 675-093
PN on the studs
rock auto shows the dorman number for 60-some cents each. But shipping is crazy if that's all you are ordering.
Found that out after I paid $2 something each at Napa.
I was determined t get mine done one Saturday, project that has been languishing too long, went to 7 Napa's that day and wasted most of the day going between them, they can tell you what stores have stock, but the count can be off. 3 store were supposed to have 8 ea that had none, one store was supposed to have 15 and also had none total count was 10 studs among the 7 stores, the store I use most thought they had em but someone had the wrong ones in the bin. You need 13 of them to install 1 manifold stack, that store who thought they had em but had the wrong ones in the right bin ordered me a box of 12 that Saturday and I had em Tuesday. The right size is 5/16x 2" long, one end fine thread, other end coarse thread. The coarse thread end threads into the head.
Oh yeah DON'T let them try to sell you the dorman pack of 10 on their roundy rack, those are METRIC!!!
Most counter help these days, don't know the difference now a days. Between 8 Napa's (including the one I stopped at Friday besides the 7 that I wasted my gas between on Saturday) 5 tried to tell me that was what I really wanted. WRONG;!!!!!!!
 
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Volaredon, I went thru this on the head I was working on.
Only thing I see is the Dorman 675-093 is a 1 and 9/16 long part number.
The -094 is the 2 inch length. (.5 and 1.5 )
Garrett's number looks like a winner also.
 
So what I was able to find out is that the engine is a 1977 225ci made on February 12. Disappointing. The guy bought it from said it was a 72 cause it came out of his 72 swinger but I knew it wasn’t that old based on the color and the apparent emissions crap all over it. I’m disappointed, but I suppose it will work as a rainy day engine if I need one.
 
There is no real difference between a 77 engine and a 72 engine. You shouldn't be disappointed.
jus sayin......
 
They say the newer cast crank ones are actually better for HP usage, cast crank plenty strong, narrower bearings make for less friction, crank is lighter than forged (spins up faster) and myself I like the peanut head better than a drool tube head like a 72 would have had, if only because there are 6 less places a peanut head can leak than a drool tube head. I have a 74 block with a 77 head on it.
According to people like Doug dutra the combustion chamber is the same on all heads 68-newer, so no difference there. Just gotta watch the 81-up ones after they went to hyd lifter because they changed the layout of the valve cover compared to 80-down.
I wouldn't be afraid of that engine you have one bit
 
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Hyper_pak said:
Volaredon, I went thru this on the head I was working on.
Only thing I see is the Dorman 675-093 is a 1 and 9/16 long part number.
The -094 is the 2 inch length. (.5 and 1.5 )
Garrett's number looks like a winner also.
Click to expand...
Huh I got that on a dorman 'buyers guide" info, that that stud I listed, was a 2" long version from a couple of places.
I DO know that the napa st-18 is in fact 2" long as that was what I wound up getting.i don't remember if those are grade 5 or 8 but either would be sufficient, as the torque on them is only 10 ft/lb. And if I remember right remflex (the manifold gasket that I used) actually calls for less. I did use stainless locknuts on mine (not the nylon type) // and as I remember, going by remflex specs, I think I wound up at 80 in/lb, they say to torque to between 5-7 ft/lb.
 
volaredon said:
They say the newer cast crank ones are actually better for HP usage, cast crank plenty strong, narrower bearings make for less friction, crank is lighter than forged (spins up faster) and myself I like the peanut head better than a drool tube head like a 72 would have had, of only because there are 6 less places a peanut head can leak than a drool tube head. I have a 74 block with a 77 head on it.
According to people like Doug dutra the combustion chamber is the same on all heads 68-newer, so no difference there. Just gotta watch the 81-up ones after they went to hyd lifter because they changed the layout of the valve cover compared to 80-down.
I wouldn't be afraid of that engine you have one bit
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Didn't UT break his cast crank?
 
I hadn't heard that, so I dunno. . but considering it's UT well, that explains a bit right there. There's several guys on the other /6 forum running cast cranks including (as I remember) Zilla and that's a 12 sec car.
 
volaredon said:
They say the newer cast crank ones are actually better for HP usage, cast crank plenty strong, narrower bearings make for less friction, crank is lighter than forged (spins up faster) and myself I like the peanut head better than a drool tube head like a 72 would have had, if only because there are 6 less places a peanut head can leak than a drool tube head. I have a 74 block with a 77 head on it.
According to people like Doug dutra the combustion chamber is the same on all heads 68-newer, so no difference there. Just gotta watch the 81-up ones after they went to hyd lifter because they changed the layout of the valve cover compared to 80-down.
I wouldn't be afraid of that engine you have one bit
Click to expand...
In fact I still have the original drool tube head that came with my 74 engine sitting here collecting dust. Anyone near Chicago (or even passing thru) need one? I'd consider it a good core at worst.
 
SpriceyStuff said:
So what I was able to find out is that the engine is a 1977 225ci made on February 12.
Click to expand...

Probably not Feb 12, because that style of date coding usually goes with older engines.

A 1977 engine should have an "E" in its stamping number, indicating a cast (rather than forged) crank.

See if you can find more casting numbers on the manifold side of the block. You're looking for a number 7 digits long, possibly followed by a dash and one or two additional digits.

The guy bought it from said it was a 72 cause it came out of his 72 swinger but I knew it wasn’t that old based on the color and the apparent emissions crap all over it
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1. 1972 and 1977 Slant-6 engines were painted the same Chrysler blue Also, paint comes in spray cans.

2. A '72 engine, particularly in a California car, could have a pretty hefty amount of emissions equipment on it. The bolt-ons aren't very indicative; it's 35 years since the last Slant-6 vehicle was made for the US/Canada market, so who the hell knows how many vehicles any random Slant-6 has been in? Engines are swapped with varying levels of skill and understanding, and it's common to see later-model emisisons equipment swapped into earlier cars by someone who didn't really know or understand what they were doing.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Doesn't Uncle Toney say the 170 is the holy grail slant 6 ?
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He says a lot of things. Once in awhile he says something that sounds sorta mostly almost kinda right, if you squint real hard and have a dozen beers and a big whack o' meth first.

(If he said anything like the 170 is the holy grail, this wasn't one of those times)
 
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Badvert65 said:
There is no real difference between a 77 engine and a 72 engine
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Cast ('77) versus forged ('72) crank, and associated non-interchangeable rods and bearings. Heavier peanut-plug cylinder head on the '77 engine. Those are a couple of the real differences between a '77 engine and a '72 engine.
 
Or they coulda put a newer head on an older short block.
They did stamp a partial vin on the engine, pass side on a flat pad towards the back just above the oil pan rail. This would have been the same as that part of the vin number of the vehicle it originally was in.
 
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