slant six build help

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vitamindart

vitamindart

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ok we are building a slant for my old dart for my son.
this is what we have so far .

slant head w/oversize SI valves being ported and polished

he wants to run the Ausie Speed intake
possibly there headers too (unless we come across a used set)

for now we are using a cast crank low mile short block we have
re-ringed and new bearings (plan on doing the oiling mods from the slantsix.org articles)

we want to mill the block not the head to raise the comp. (possible turbo or supercharger short block later) how much should we mill it?
(premium pump gas or race gas mix ok)

cam recomendations how much lift and dur. can we run w/o reliefs in the pistons. who"s cams do you rec. or warn against?

timing chain options? roller rocker options?

its going to be a auto so a stall convertor will be needed

any and all advise would be Greatly appreciated.....

Thanks Dominic & Jeremy
 
ok what is this thing being used for? sounds like a weekend warrior or race only...

so first your going to have to figure out how far the piston is in the hole... slants range anywhere from .140 to .200 down! so there is a lot of variation... i would plan on .100 off the head, then cc the head. with this you can figure out how much to take off the block to give you x compression.

first Cam would be erson but i dont know if there still around... here is there phone number 1-775-246-4062.
for cam specs i wouldn't run anything smaller than a 246 @ .050/.360 lobe lift/104-108LSA... remember slants have a 1.4 ratio rocker and roller rockers seem to be sketchy when they are around...

as for converters you can go with Andre @ Edge, my converter i just got is awesome 3400 stall 9.5".

timing chain would either be roller master or JP, can get both on ebay

you can get new weisco pistons or just over bore stock style from summit ( .030, .040, .060,.080)

here is my slanty...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ABKFcGty38"]YouTube - Walk Around Day.MOV[/ame]
 
Pistons are .150 down in the hole.
Would prefer not to mill the head since it will be used on a turbo/supercharged block later.

The car will be a weekend cruiser/track car.
 
vitamindart said:
Pistons are .150 down in the hole.
Would prefer not to mill the head since it will be used on a turbo/supercharged block later.

The car will be a weekend cruiser/track car.
Click to expand...

well since its not a race car only i would be shooting for 10:1 compression, .340-360 lobe lift (.475-520 valve lift), 240-248 * @ .050 104-106LSA.

well cc the head and then find out what head gasket your using... that will give you your current compression, then figure out how much to take off the block... im guessing about .110 tho... mine was .180 in the hole, i took .110 off the head and it gave me 9.2:1...
 
Your dart sounds good I think my next a body is going to be a slant six car or maybe a swepty with a slant there hard to kill
 
You have a good baseline. Moparkid has a good ride and engine combo. PM me whwn your ready for the Aussie Speed stuff.
Frank
 
ok the head roughly cc'd at 60 and like i said the pistons are .150 down in the hole . so what is the max you can take off the block? and how much lift can you run before piston to valve clearance is an issue? we were looking at maybe .120 off the block and .015 ish off the head & that should get us around 10 to 1 compression . just want to get an idea before we call for a cam ....
 
vitamindart said:
ok the head roughly cc'd at 60 and like i said the pistons are .150 down in the hole . so what is the max you can take off the block? and how much lift can you run before piston to valve clearance is an issue? we were looking at maybe .120 off the block and .015 ish off the head & that should get us around 10 to 1 compression . just want to get an idea before we call for a cam ....
Click to expand...

i wouldn't go anymore than .110-.120 off the block...

for me that is really hard to say because of valve timing and what not... what you might be able to do is call comp and tell them what kind of cam you want to run... they give you the specs that they would sell you... then ask them at TDC how far open will the int/exh valves be...

this is the only way i could tell you with out a cam in it...
 
is it possible to take .125 off the block or is that realy pushing it? planing on droping the block off this week. gotta get something moving around here LOL
 
.125 off the block is fine. I have taken .150 off with NO problems. Combined you may have to look at new pushrods (Smith Brothers) if you go more than .150.
Frank
 
Oh and remember the Machine shop is going to have a FIT and will swear that you can take 1/10 of an inch off. THIS AINT NO V8 CHEVY!!!!
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Oh and remember the Machine shop is going to have a FIT and will swear that you can take 1/10 of an inch off. THIS AINT NO V8 CHEVY!!!!
Frank
Click to expand...

lol so true.... the shop who did mine said it took 2 days of milling...
 
ha ha so funny but true .. nah my buddy has a shop where he does nothing but cylinder head work . he ported the head for us it is beautiful....he is old chevy guy but i'm bringing him around...he has a machine shop (not a engine shop) he works with they do great work cheap and do a auesome job ....
 
vitamindart said:
ha ha so funny but true .. nah my buddy has a shop where he does nothing but cylinder head work . he ported the head for us it is beautiful....he is old chevy guy but i'm bringing him around...he has a machine shop (not a engine shop) he works with they do great work cheap and do a auesome job ....
Click to expand...

how much head work did he do?
 
oversize valves , full port and polish man those posrt look real nice! anmd cut for better valve seals , hardend seats..pretty much the whole shooting match LOL
 
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